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Chapter 9 |
CHAPTER IX
ANOTHER VIEW OF SALEM
The quaint old Custom-house on Derby Street, looking down
on Derby wharf, is the link connecting the commercial with the literary
history of Salem. Here for three long years Hawthorne sat and dreamed
and wrote, seeing in its officers and habitués prototypes of his
most distinctive characters, and finally
discovering in its rubbish room the suggestions for his most famous
romance.
The building is a large, two-storied brick structure,
surmounted by a cupola and eagle, not old —
dating only from 1819 —
but with an air of age. Entering the hail by a
broad flight of several steps, on your right is a bulletin board filled
with nautical notices, and on the left and right, further on, two doors,
the first opening into the Deputy Collector’s room, the second into
the office where the customs business is transacted. One regards its
railed periphery with more interest when one reflects that over eleven
millions of dollars have passed over it into Uncle Sam’s coffers,
together with the clearances and invoices of some ten thousand vessels.
We found the Custom-house attaches pleasant, |
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In Olde Massachusetts
and disposed to facilitate our seeing everything of
interest in the building. A gentleman in blue led us across the hail and
into the room of the Deputy Collector, which, from 1846 to 1849, had
been occupied by the great romancer. That officer kindly showed us the
place where Hawthorne’s desk and armchair had stood, and the
stencil-plate with which he put his name on packages; then, opening his
desk, he took out for our inspection a package of yellow documents,
manifests, orders, and the like, with the author’s autograph in red
ink upon them. No other relics remain. The Custom-house was refurnished
in 1873, and Hawthorne’s desk was then removed to the Essex Institute,
where it is still preserved. From this room our guide led us up-stairs
and through the Collector’s parlors to a little ante-chamber, which he
said in Hawthorne’s day was used for storing old papers and rubbish.
It was in this room — the
weird genius tells his readers —that
he found the manuscript of the "Scarlet Letter." Our guide was
very skeptical on this point. "I don’t believe he did," said
he; "I think he made it all up himself." But we forbore
expressing an opinion. A little later we climbed alone to the cupola. It
is a small room under the gilded eagle, commanding a charming view of
Salem, the shipping, and the sea beyond. Hither the author loved to
climb and coin the airy fancies that later found expression in the
"Scarlet Letter" and the "House of the Seven
Gables."
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Another View of Salem
There are many well-preserved old men in the town who
remember Hawthorne as Surveyor of the Port. One —
a portly, comfortable-looking old gentleman, who,
when the author was filling his sinecure position in the Custom-house,
was fitting with rigging and sails the numerous craft turned out of
Salem ship-yards now rich and retired, had nothing better to do than to
accompany me up the street and point out two ancient buildings quite
intimately connected with our author’s history. "The Hawthornes
are an old family in Salem," he remarked, as we began our walk,
"and well thought of. Major William Hawthorne, who came with
Governor Winthrop in the Arabella, founded the stock, and there
have been notable and thrifty men among them ever since. This is No. 21
Union Street, a quaint old structure, with huge chimney and dormer roof,
as you see. Well, in the upper northeast corner room, there, Nathaniel
Hawthorne was born. It was an auspicious day —
July 4, 1804. There he lived until 1808, when his
father died, and he, with his mother, went to live with his maternal
grandfather, Richard Manning, on Herbert Street. It was not a far
remove, for, as you see, the back yards of the two houses join each
other. Most of his early years in Salem were spent in the latter. When
he came back here from Concord in 1840 he went to live in his father’s
house on Union Street, where much of his literary work of that period
was done. You may
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In Olde Massachusetts
remember an allusion of his to this old house —
I think in one of his Note-books: ‘Here I sit,’
he wrote, ‘in my old accustomed chamber where I used to sit in days gone
by. Here I have written many tales. If ever I have a biographer, he ought
to make mention of this chamber, in my memoirs, because here my mind and
character were formed, and here I sat a long, long time waiting patiently
for the world to know me, and sometimes wondering why it did not know me
sooner, or whether it would ever know me at all —
at least until I was in my grave."
There are other houses in town of interest from their
association with great men. William H. Prescott was born in 1796, in a
house that stood on the present site of Plummer Hall. The old mansion in
which Mr. Joshua Ward entertained President Washington on his visit to
Salem in 1789 was pointed out on Washington Street. The birthplace of
Timothy Pickering was an old mansion on Broad Street, and that of
Nathaniel Bowditch on Brown Street. Story and Rogers, the sculptors, were
also natives here.
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