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Chapter
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Chapter XXIX
Lenox in 1883
Lenox lies in the heart of the Berkshire
Hills, two miles and a half from railroad and river, and very far away
from any literary or commercial center; yet within a radius of two miles
of the village green are between fifty and sixty elegant country seats,
each surrounded by a large, well-kept estate. Fair equestrians and
glittering equipages are familiar objects on the mountain roads. At the
intersection of the two principal streets stands the hostelry of my friend
Curtis, substantially built years ago of brick, whose great fires roar up
its chimneys through autumn days with hospitable sound. it has entertained
in its day Kossutb, Sumner, Channing, McClellan, Fanny Kemble, Charlotte
Cushman, Hawthorne, Thoreau, Bret Harte, and, indeed, nearly all the
notables of two generations. The town has been called a second Saratoga,
the springs and the great hotels excepted —
a most inapt comparison, since Lenox is almost
wholly devoted to the cottager, and its society is exclusive to a degree.
It is rather a continuation of Newport. The season usually opens about the
15th of August, and closes by the middle
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of October, it being the fashion to flit with the
leaves. Many of the visitors own cottages at Newport, which, as summer
wanes, they close to finish the season at Lenox.
We one day inquired of Mr. Curtis, an unquestioned
authority on all matters pertaining to Lenox, as to the special
attractions which have drawn the wealthy and distinguished in such numbers
to the village, but he evaded a reply by inviting us out to drive, wisely
assuming that that would be the only method of imparting to a visitor the
charm of natural beauty and literary association which has made Lenox the
fascinating spot it is. We drove southeast along the crest of the long
undulation dominated by encircling ranges on which the town is built. On a
side street, almost hidden by a copse of pines, he pointed out a pretty
cottage. "In the ‘L’ of that cottage, built especially for
her," he remarked, "behind that green blind, Catherine Sedgwick
wrote most of her later tales." Then, in the hollow at the foot of
the hill, he pointed out the localities of the former homes of two other
famous women, Fanny Kemble and Charlotte Cushman. "These three ladies
spent many years in Lenox when it was entirely unknown to fame," he
continued; "and their enthusiastic descriptions of it, with both
tongue and pen, first made its beauties known. Miss Kemble, in particular,
was fascinated by it. I was a lad of twenty when she first began spending
her summers here, and was often em-
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ployed to drive her in her excursions about the
country. What beauty, what genius, what a presence she had. I don’t
suppose there’s a mountain peak or a lake in this region that I haven’t
piloted her to. Sometimes she went alone, but oftener Miss Sedgwick or
Miss Cushman or the young ladies of Mrs. Sedgwick’s school made up the
party. She then appeared at her best. To hear her recite Shakespeare on
Greylock, or Bryant on Monument Mountain, in the midst of her friends,
was to gain a new idea of her powers."
At this moment we turned into a drive that led
through spacious grounds to the front of a well-kept country seat.
"This," said Mr. Curtis, "is the Haggerty place, leased
the past summer by Robert C. Winthrop, Jr. Col. Robert G. Shaw, of the
Fifty-fourth Massachusetts Colored Volunteers, married a daughter of the
owner and brought his bride here for the honeymoon, leaving her here
after a few weeks, to march to his death in the assault on Fort Wagner,
where, as you will remember, he was buried by the enemy under the bodies
of his men. Mrs. Shaw, after her husband’s death, resided here many
years, and here entertained one summer Christine Nilsson, of whom I
shall have something to say when we reach Echo Lake. Perhaps you would
like to see the house where most of the ‘Star Papers’ were written.
Here it is, this plain little cottage under the hill. When Mr. Beecher
owned it, however, it stood on the hill instead of under it, on
the
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site occupied by the fine villa yonder. Mr. Beecher
spent several summers in Lenox, and, like Miss Kemble, was fairly
fascinated by it; so much so that his congregation began to fear they
would lose him entirely, and finally prevailed on him to allow his place
here to be sold, purchasing for him instead
his present farm at Peekskill. The farm is now owned by General Rathbone,
of Albany."
From this point we drove down to and partly around
Laurel Lake, a lovely sheet of water, a favorite haunt of Miss Kemble,
which called out many interesting reminiséences of her from my
companion. Returning villageward by another road, we passed the cottages
of Dr. William H. Draper, of New York, and of Professor Rachemann, who
married a niece of Miss Sedgwick, and drove by a private road through
spacious grounds to one of the old-time mansions of Lenox, formerly
owned by Judge Walker, a gentleman as much honored in Lenox as the
Sedgwicks were in Stockbridge. "His son, Judge William, had a
beautiful daughter, Sarah, who became the first wife of Senator David
Davis. It came about in this way: at the time Senator Yancey and Josh
Billings were wild boys at Lenox Academy, Mr. Davis was studying law in
the village with old Judge Bishop, and being captivated by the lady,
wooed and won her before his studies were completed." A short
distance above the Walker place, Mr. Lanier, of New York, has chosen the
site of a pretty modern villa, one
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Lenox in 1883
of the most commanding and beautiful
spots in all Berkshire. The hill slopes down to the shores of the fam6us
Stockbridge Bowl. Southward the view is partly closed by the jagged
pinnacles of Monument Mountain, and far below that by the blue dome of
Mount Everett, the loftiest peak of the Taghanics, while on the north
the view ends with the double peaks of Greylock. Near by, on the
bluff-like north bank of the Bowl, stands the little red cottage where
Hawthorne wrote his "Tanglewood Tales" and "House of
Seven Gables." We drove down, making quite a detour to reach it,
and saw on a closer inspection a small, one-story cottage, half
farmhouse, with green blinds, and a long "L" on the west,
adjoining a barn. The author’s study was in the southeast room, and
commanded a beautiful view of the lake and the mountain vista described
on the south. "Many a time," said Mr. Curtis, "I have
come down the road yonder and stopped for a chat with Hawthorne. With me
he was always cheerful and sociable, though some have called him
misanthropic. He always had a sad look in his eyes, and often in
conversation would fall into a reverie from which he would rouse himself
with an effort. His life here was a very lonely one; he rarely called on
any of the neighbors and had few visitors excepting children, of whom he
was very fond, and who were drawn to him instinctively. The financial
difficulties which clouded
so much of his life bad not then been removed.
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I think he had, too, a feeling that his talents were
not fully appreciated."
Echo Lake was the next point of interest included in
our drive. The roads of this region are excellent, and the black and bay
bore us around the west shores of Stockbridge Bowl with a rush. From the
south shore we had our best general view of this justly famed sheet of
water. The reader may imagine it as the pit of a great amphitheater
whose outer rim is eight or nine miles in diameter, and its walls at
first the green foothills, covered with country seats, which constitute
Lenox, above them rising the craggy and wooded spurs of the Taghanics,
the whole forming a landscape that for striking contrasts and
concentration of detail has few equals. A mile south of the Bowl we came
to a new road opened only last June for the sole use of pleasure
parties, which led us west for nearly half a mile, until at the base of
West Stockbridge Mountain we came upon Echo Lake. To my mind it is the
prettiest of the twelve or fifteen lakes that lie within easy distance
of Lenox. Its shores are delightfully irregular, abounding in sheltered
nooks and coves, and are shaded in places by open groves of pine much
sought by picnic parties. On the west it is overhung by the black, grim
mass of the mountain; its chief feature is a double echo which repeats
and repeats all sounds given it with astonishing accuracy and volume.
Midway of the east shore is an overhanging boulder canopied by a young
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oak, which at the time of our visit hung an oriflamme
of color over the lake. It was on this rock that Christine Nilsson sang,
while visiting in Lenox, to a select company of friends who had
accompanied her to the lake. As described to me the scene must have been
one of the most dramatic ever witnessed. Standing on the rock, the great
singer threw across the water to the mountain the choicest notes in her
repertoire, and these were caught by its subtle spirits and thrown back
in double measure and with perfect accuracy. By and by, as the singer’s
ardor grew, the notes were echoed and reechoed with equal spirit, until
it seemed that scores of celestial choirs must be hidden somewhere among
the recesses of the crags.
Echo Lake was the limit of our drive. As we drove
back into the village street, Mr. Curtis inquired if my question had
been satisfactorily answered, and I admitted that the answer was
all-sufficient.
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