ON the following morning, April 28th, we surveyed the premises, formerly a military station, garrisoned with soldiers and filled with military stores and implements of war, now to be transformed into a missionary post, whence should go forth the Word of Life, with all the gentler and more subduing influences of the Gospel of Peace.

      Large appropriations had been made by the General Council of the Choctaw Nation for educational purposes. These acts had obtained the sanction of the proper department at Washington, and had now the force of law. Hitherto the interest of the sums due to the several Indian tribes had been paid out in annual dividends, and distribution made per caput to each man, woman, and child of the tribe--a course still pursued by many of the tribes. The evils of this annuity system had long been apparent, creating a dependence upon a trifling annual stipend, and weakening the motives to personal exertion and self-reliance. The more intelligent and judicious among the Choctaws were not slow to discern this, and wisely determined to cut off the annuities and to apply the larger proportion of their annual income to purposes of education and general improvement.

      Probably no nation on earth has ever applied so large a proportion of its public revenue to the cause of education. Distrusting their own ability to manage these funds judiciously, they had, by law, placed the larger proportion of the amount in the hands of the Missionary Boards of several different religious denominations, already laboring among them, to be used in the manner intended. In these

appropriations the Missionary Society of the Methodist Episcopal Church had shared largely. Rev. E. R. Ames, in the prosecution of his work as Corresponding Secretary, had attended in person the session of their General Council, and aided by his advice in planning the system of education and drawing up the act of the Council which made the appropriations and provided for their control. Subsequently lie obtained their ratification at Washington, services of which the Choctaw people retained a grateful recollection. The Choctaws had been the most extensive patrons of the Government school for Indians, under the supervision of Colonel Richard M. Johnson, in Kentucky. They had seen the evil of sending their children abroad, and were now resolved upon a system of home education.

      Three large institutions of learning were provided for by the act. Two of these were placed under the care of our Missionary Society, each with an appropriation of six thousand dollars a year for twenty years, with the condition that the Society should make an annual appropriation additionally of one thousand dollars to each. One of these institutions was located at Fort Coffee, and the other at an interior point upon Ki-e-mi-chi River, called "Nun-na-wa-ya." The Choctaw National Council undertook to manage the third themselves by a Board of Native Trustees of their own appointment, with the aid of the United States Agent resident among them. An eligible site was selected near their Council House, and the name of "Spencer Academy" was assumed in honor of the Secretary of War. Liberal appropriations were also made to other schools already in existence under the care of other missionary organizations.

      Under the removal policy of the United States Government, this people had been transferred from their original homes east of the Mississippi River, and mainly in the State of Mississippi, and placed upon the lands now occupied by them. Some ton years, more or loss, had been occupied in their removal. Their entire number was about

twenty thousand, near two-thirds of whom had already been removed, and the remaining third were still behind. Since that time the removal of the entire tribe has been completed.

      The lands assigned to the tribe embraced a large tract of country lying west of the southern portion of the State of Arkansas; having the Arkansas River on the north dividing them from the Cherokees, and Red River on the south separating them from Texas being the most southerly portion of what is known as the "Indian Territory." The breadth of this, their new national domain, from north to south, was about one hundred miles, and its extent westward probably two hundred or more. Within these limits, as will hereafter be seen, are embraced also their kindred tribe, the Chickasaws.

      This tract of country is in a high degree picturesque. A ridge of mountains intersects it from east to west, and single mountainous elevations are found in many places rising up from the plain; sonic oblong, some conical, others in various forms, and greatly diversifying the scenery. The mountain sides are generally covered with a heavy growth of yellow or pitch pine, while the level lands are divided between prairie and woodland. The small prairie valleys between the different mountain ridges are strikingly beautiful.

      The country is well watered. Health is in the main good, though somewhat interrupted during the Summer months by intermittent bilious disease. The lowlands upon the streams are fertile; some of the wooded uplands also. On the south or Red River side are some fine cotton plantations, owned and managed by natives, generally of the mixed blood. The prairies between the Arkansas and Red River are poor, hearing, in their natural state, a thin coat of grass, but wholly unfit for cultivation or continued pasturage. As a whole, the Choctaw lands are quite inferior to those of the Cherokees on the north, or of Texas on the south. The lands are held in common by the tribe,

each having his option to reside where he chooses; only so that no new settlement is permitted within a prescribed distance of one previously occupied.

      We found the Choctaws living under a regular form of government with a written Constitution and laws, modeled after our own. Their Legislature consisted of a General Council with two branches, an upper and lower house the Representatives being elected by the people. The executive authority was vested in three chiefs, elected at stated intervals; the nation being divided into three districts, of which each had its chief; and a majority of these held a veto power upon legislative action. They had also a judiciary constituted by law. These forms, however, were, as might be expected in their condition of society, loosely and inefficiently administered, and mingled up with many relics of their former customs.

      This triple lodgment of executive power had obtained previous to their removal West. At the time of removal the three chiefs were divided in sentiment and policy. Two of them, Push-mata-ha and Puck-she-nub-bee, were favorable to the efforts of missionaries and to the cause of morals and education; while the third, Me-shu-la-tub-bee, opposed all efforts for the civilization and moral and intellectual improvement of his people. Upon this question the nation also was divided, and the new settlement was controlled by party affinities and predilections. The first two leaders, followed by the more enlightened and orderly portion of the tribe, settled in the south of their country, upon Red River, accompanied by their missionaries; while the infidel and more savage part, under the leadership of their chief, took possession of the northern and less inviting section lying upon the Arkansas. The three districts took the names of the three several chiefs then in power, which they still retain. Among this last and rudest portion of the tribe our lot was east.

      FORT COFFEE, the site of our intended institution, was in the northern extreme of the Choctaw country, upon the
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south bank of the Arkansas River. The position is commanding and beautiful in a high degree; situated upon an elevated projecting bluff, overlooking the country of the Cherokees upon the opposite shore, and affording a fine view of the river below and above. A precipice of some sixty feet overhangs the river in semicircular or crescent form, with a ravine below and lowlands above. Upon the brink was the guard-house, surmounted with a flagstaff. From the brink is a gradual ascent of several hundred yards to the main fort buildings. A narrow neck joins the promontory to the uplands in the rear. The grounds were set in blue-grass and covered with tall forest trees and an undergrowth of young cedars.

      From an inscription upon the wall of one of the buildings we learned that the fort was established in June, 1834, and evacuated in November, 1838. The reason assigned for the relinquishment of the post was, I believe, that the garrison might be stationed more immediately upon the State line, such being the situation of Fort Smith. After its abandonment by the Government, the site had been taken up as a claim by a shrewd half-breed Indian, and, upon the location of our institution at that point, we were under the necessity of paying him largely to relinquish.

      The principal buildings of the fort were arranged in a hollow square, embracing an area of about one hundred feet square within; three sides being built up, and the fourth open, except the spots occupied by magazines; the intervening spaces having been once filled with pickets which were now fallen down. Besides these there were numerous other buildings for various uses, without the regular line of inclosure. The aspect of the place was cheerful and inviting, though four years of neglect had left the buildings in a dilapidated state; all needing repairs, and some requiring to be removed and their places supplied.

      Early on the day after our arrival we were waited upon by Major William Armstrong, Superintendent of Indian Affairs in the South-West, and also United States Agent for

the Choctaws, who gave us a cordial reception, and with J. H. Heald, Esq., a prominent Indian trader, furnished us with teams and hands, and afforded every needed aid.

      Among the small number of white men that are found on Indian ground are a few of the very best, and a larger number of the very worst, specimens of our fallen humanity. The two gentlemen just referred to, the former of whom has since passed away from time, deserve to be ranked among the few who have maintained, in all their intercourse with the Indians, an unblemished reputation.

      Major Armstrong was a native of Tennessee, and a brother to General Robert Armstrong, late Consul to Liverpool, and long the intimate friend of General Jackson. Another brother had held the place of Choctaw Agent, and, dying, was succeeded by the acting incumbent. Major Armstrong was one of "nature's noblemen;" of commanding person and noble bearing; courteous, gentlemanly, and hospitable; with a soul that scorned the thought of profiting by a mean act, whether at the expense of a white or red man. He was emphatically the friend of the Indian, and especially of the Choctaw; and, as a result, he possessed their confidence and even affection in a very high degree.

      An incident will illustrate this, while it, at the same time, throws some light upon Choctaw character. During the harassing wars with the Seminoles in Florida, it was proposed by the Government, as a means of ferreting them out from their lurking-places, to employ against them some of the removed Indians known to be loyal and warlike. The Choctaws were called upon, and soon a large band responded to the summons, assembled at the Agency, erected their war-pole, and began their war-songs. Learning, however, that they were to be mustered into service under the command of the officers of the regular army, they refused, and demanded that they should be led by their agent and friend, Major Armstrong. This being denied, they disbanded, returned to their homes, and left the Government to carry on its war as best it could.

      Major Armstrong highly approved the educational movements among this people, encouraged missionary labor, and vigorously seconded every effort for their improvement. This much is due to the memory of the Indian's friend and protector, a worthy man and faithful public officer. Would that among the appointees of the Government to Indian Agencies such examples were not so rare

      Mr. Heald was an Eastern man, and a gentleman of the first stamp, liberally educated, and possessing fine business attainments. He was a member of the house of Berthelet, Heald & Co., the first being a Canadian, and the third member, Bob Jones, a half-breed Choctaw. They were the licensed traders of the nation, had establishments at different points, and supplied the natives with goods of good quality and at fair rates, scorning to deceive or take advantage of their ignorance; a great contrast with the character of most Indian traders. Here were no conspiracies between agents and traders to defraud the Indians; no licentious examples to debauch them.

      Mr. Heald was amiable, generous, and humane. It was only to be regretted that he was of too fine a mold for the rugged contacts and associations of the frontier. Of this we shall hereafter see evidence. He subsequently became a member of a house in New Orleans. Both these gentlemen resided at the Agency, about five miles distant from our station; and from the hands of them both myself and family received many kind attentions, that contributed no little to soften down the asperities of our exposed situation.

      OUR destination was now reached; and the magnitude and pressing character of our work opened tip before us. The institution, under the name of "Fort Coffee Academy," was to consist of two departments; that for males at the place bearing the name; that for females at New Hope, some five miles distant and near the Agency.

      The outlines of the plan were laid down in the act of the General Council. The students were to be selected by the Council, and to be boarded, clothed, and instructed, at the expense of the institution. The course for the boys was to include instruction in agriculture and mechanic arts, as well as literature and morals. The females were to be instructed in appropriate domestic labors.

      My appointment, as Superintendent, embraced the control of funds; employment of teachers; oversight of school; planning, contracting for, and superintending buildings; farming operations; in short, the entire management of all its affairs. The only proviso was that the books of the institution should at all times be open to the inspection of three trustees, educated natives appointed by the Council, but claiming no control over disbursements. Subsequently a committee was appointed by the Conference to act in conjunction with the agent, with whom I should make annual settlements. In addition to this I had a pastoral charge embracing the institution and country contiguous.

      Some building and a large amount of repairing was needed at Fort Coffee, and the male department was expected to be open for students the ensuing Autumn; while

for the female department at New Hope, the beginning was yet to be made. The farming lands attached to the premises were. to be cultivated, and supplies raised. We were now in the last days of April; no preparations had been made; no laborers, no teams for farming, to say nothing of mechanics and building material. Our whole colony consisted of my German, his wife and child, and myself; and our only domestic animal was a large dog that I had bought upon the Mississippi. And so exceedingly timid were my Germans among "the Indians," that it was with difficulty I could leave them for an hour.

      We lacked funds, too. The construction placed upon the act was, that our annual appropriation did not commence to run from the date of its passage, but from the time of our actually entering upon the work. So we had nothing to begin with; and our building fund was to be saved after paying current expenses. The missionary appropriation of one thousand dollars had been placed in my hands; upon my own responsibility I borrowed a thousand wore; and this was all we had for outfit and expenditures till means should be received from the department. Necessity, however, drove us to effort, and Providence kindly opened our way.

      The first Sabbath I went to New Hope, and preached to a mingled company of whites, blacks, and Indians, formed some acquaintances, and was kindly entertained by Major Armstrong, with whom I always found a hospitable home. Early in the week following I was off for Fort Smith, Van Buren, and adjacent country below the State line, in search of teams, hands, etc. In the course of about ten days I found myself in possession of a good substantial team; hands were at work upon the farm, a large quantity of pine lumber, shingles, etc., had been delivered at our landing, and a good mechanical force were at work upon the buildings; the desolate, forsaken aspect suddenly gave way to the life and bustle of agricultural and mechanical industry.

      An occurrence, however, of which we little thought,

came very near arresting our building operations. A large amount of lumber was lying upon the beach. The river was quite low, and no indication, to our eyes, of a rise--when suddenly came rolling down the stream a torrent of water, swelling it with a rapidity known probably to no ether stream in the wide world. An exciting scene ensued. All hands and teams fell to, and, by great effort, our material was saved from starting for the lower country on its own responsibility. The Arkansas is given to such freaks, especially at the time of its annual overflow called the "June rise." The weather may be dry, the sky clear, the great channel almost bare in the evening, and by morning a perfect torrent be rolling by. This hint was enough to keep us wide awake thereafter.

      A plan was soon made out for the requisite changes in adapting the buildings to the new occupancy. Near the center of the north line of buildings stood the commandant's quarters, the most imposing edifice of the group. This, upon examination by the mechanics, was pronounced too far gone for repair, and was doomed to be demolished and its place supplied by another, intended as the residence of the superintendent's family, etc. On the left, in the same line, stood the warehouse reserved for the same uses, and on the right a building appropriated as our storeroom. Upon the east stood a line of barracks which we converted into a dining-hall, with kitchen in the rear; a large schoolroom, occupied also for a chapel, and a row of dormitories for students. On the west was a similar line, part of which were set apart as lodgings for occasional guests, teachers, and other employés, and the remaining rooms to be occupied by students. The magazines were removed, and the space on the south left open. The sutler's store, without the lines, was set apart as a residence for the cook and his family, and the hospital converted into a barn. In short, the whole arrangement was turned over and made to conform to the new order of things.

      Occasional developments were made during the process

that gave to our men some amusing ideas of the habits of former occupants; none more so than the exploration of our well. This was a wide, deep excavation, much of the way blown out of solid rock, which had supplied the entire garrison. The great windlass was worked by a large wheel similar to the pilot-wheel of a steamboat. It yielded a bountiful supply of pure freestone water; but large accumulations had been made at its bottom of unknown substances, bedded in some ten feet of mud, which did not materially improve its flavor or supposed healthfulness. We were told that the abundance of the supply rendered hopeless any attempt to draw off the water, preparatory to a "cleaning out." But we resolved upon a trial. An Irishman from Fort Smith was employed for subterranean operations. Two half-barrels were rigged to the massive windlass. A respite of a day's labor was proclaimed to all the mechanics and laborers, and all hands joined in the common interest. At an early hour it was commenced, the men working at the windlass, and resting by turns, so as to keep the water rapidly passing off. By nightfall it was done; water, mud, and all thrown off, the rocky bottom gained, and the solid contents brought up and ranged in line, as follows: one half-barrel, three large wooden well-buckets, one painted bucket, five large tin buckets, five small tin buckets, two coffee-pots, three tin pans, five tin cups, one quart cup, two table-spoons, one curry-comb, one bridle-bit, one soldier's cap, and sundry other articles too tedious to mention. What kind of compound would be formed for our daily beverage from these ingredients, I leave to better chemists to determine. But ever after we were abundantly supplied with that indispensable to health and comfort, pure cold water.

      The Spring proved rainy, and our work was somewhat retarded. Several of our hands, too, suffered from sickness. Still the hand of God was upon us for good, and our work prospered. Upon the 24th of May we finished planting corn, of which, in the Fall, we had a fine yield. Our me-

chanical improvements, too, went forward rapidly. About two months had now passed since, amid the snows of the North, I had received my appointment to this field. The change had been made, some two thousand miles traveled, all our preparations gone through, and our work was now fairly under way, with a good prospect, by God's blessing, of meeting, at the fixed time, the expectations of all concerned.

      It is hard, for those that have never realized, to imagine the solitary feelings produced by a transition from home, domestic relations, social and religious privileges, to a state of almost absolute seclusion. Subsequent years, in a degree, inured me; but it cost many a struggle to gain the victory, and even yet it is but partial. It matters not that we are surrounded by beings possessed of a common humanity, if there be no chords of mutual sympathetic feeling. And so different are the habits of civilized and savage life that there are but few of these. Our intercourse with the moving, thinking world was altogether through the mails; and these, irregular and unreliable, often led to disappointment. Generally they brought reports of health and comfort from loved ones left behind, and sometimes of sickness and kind attentions of friends, at which the unbidden tear would fall. Sometimes they brought tidings of death. Never shall I forget the feelings produced by the announcement from a single mail of the deaths of three valued friends, one of whom I had left awaiting his change, and two others cut suddenly down at the noonday of life. Suddenly, solemnly, the news from afar fell upon us. But

      "There's mercy in every place;"

and even here we had precious seasons of communion with God.

      I preached on the Sabbath alternately at Fort Coffee and New Hope. Our mixed congregations were attentive, and seed was sown which, I humbly trust, may bring forth fruit unto eternal life. Class meetings, too, were not forgotten, though conducted in a very simple and primitive
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form. Under date of May 18th, I find I made the following record:

      "Even here we find sweet access to God in prayer. We feel that we are in the order of God and doing his work, and we trust in God that our 'labor' will not be 'in vain.' I have not had a single doubt or misgiving with regard to the indications of Providence in this quarter since I entered upon the work. Every successive step confirms me in the belief that there is here a 'great and effectual' door opened. Why should we remain in the densely-populated settlements and crowd each other, preaching to those upon whose heads a fearful load of guilt is already accumulated by long-continued rejection of the Gospel message, while thousands upon thousands are perishing in their own native darkness? Let us rather follow them to their own wilds. With them let us

      But 'who is sufficient for these things? "Who has the grace, discretion, self-denial, and persevering firmness requisite for so great a work? For this we cast ourselves upon God and the prayers of the Church."

      As time and opportunity allowed I mingled freely with the natives, and endeavored to acquaint myself with their condition, habits, and prejudices. So greatly have the Indians been deceived and imposed upon by the whites that it is no matter of surprise they should look with suspicion upon all strangers; but their confidence, once gained, is implicit. My attachment to this people increased with acquaintance; my whole intercourse with them was agreeable; and, while I saw much in their condition and character to regret, I also saw many things to love and admire.

      The removal of this people, as has been the case with most of the removed tribes, was followed with great diminution of their numbers. Ignorant, improvident, without the foresight necessary to prepare for the change, having none to care for them beyond the completion of a contract

for delivery, like so many cattle, their exposure brought on disease in various forms, and their numbers were fearfully thinned. Melancholy and dejected with their compulsory removal, years elapsed without much effort for improvement. An amusing incident, illustrative of their feelings on leaving their old homes, and their sense of the injustice done them, was related to me. At the time that a large party were being ferried across the Mississippi, the boat about making its last trip, among the remaining fragments that were thrown in was a shrewd, waggish Choctaw, quite drunk. He was unceremoniously heaved into the boat, and, lying upon his back as she shoved off from the eastern shore, he exclaimed: "Farewell, white man!" with an oath, "Steal my land!"

      Time, however, was in a degree reconciling them to their new homes. Dispersed over the country, they had selected the best lands, erected cabins, cleared small patches upon which they raised a little corn and other common vegetables. Their chief property was in their cattle. A common Indian frequently owned fifty or a hundred head. The Winters being mild and short, they subsisted all the year without being fed, wintering mostly upon the cane, fat all the year, except a short time in early Spring, when the warm weather drove them from the cane-brakes before grass was sufficient. Many of them attained a great size. Their beef was a staple article of diet, and the chief inducement to raise them, their habits being too careless and unthrifty to profit much from the milk. Some were in better circumstances, especially mixed bloods, owning slaves whose industry and foresight were superior to their own. Some of these had good farms, with comfortable improvements, and a few were the owners of considerable cotton plantations,

      The Choctaws are a mild, pacific people, though reckoned one of the most warlike tribes. The men of the tribe are generally spare, with small limbs and neatly-formed hand and foot, while the women are more robust and cor-

pulent. It is the boast of the nation that they have "never shed a white man's blood." Perhaps no tribe on our frontier is so loyal to the United States Government as the Choctaws. As a general thing they are strictly honest, thefts being rarely known among them. Naturally they are pensive and rather inclined to melancholy. Suicides are frequent. They are indolent and inactive, and the drudgery is mainly performed by the squaws. A Choctaw is rarely seen beyond the limits of his own tribe.

      The language of the Choctaws is mild and soft, and to the ear of a stranger it lacks articulateness. The tone of conversation is monotonous, and the nasal predominates. The name of the tribe itself has not, among them, that harsh pronunciation which our English orthography indicates, but is softly pronounced "Chah-tah." When engaged in animated conversation their words are sung out, especially by the women, with quite a tune. The language is easily acquired, and some of the older missionaries speak it fluently. In their written language, as arranged by the missionaries, they use our alphabet, having hymns and portions of the Scriptures translated for their use. Like most ether Indians, they laugh a great deal, and, when sober, are extremely gentle and inoffensive in their habits.

      In common with Indians generally, strong drink is their great bane. They have rigid laws against the introduction of ardent spirits into their country, and a set of ministerial officers known as "light horse," a sort of patrol band, are specially charged with its execution. Whenever found, the barrels or jugs are unceremoniously tomahawked, and the contents poured out. Several of the Indian tribes could boast a prohibitory act years before the "Maine Law" originated. But no such law exists among their "civilized" neighbors. Whisky in large quantities is brought, by unprincipled men, to the very line of the State, and they cross over, and drink, and smuggle large quantities into their country. Under its influence murders are common, and net unfrequently the murder of near relations.

      Missionary labors had been bestowed upon this people for many years prior to their removal, and some thousands of them were in actual membership in the several Churches, about one thousand in our own Church. The missionaries of the American Board accompanied them to their new homes, and those of the Methodist Episcopal Church followed them by appointments from year to year. But these labors had been confined to the south of the Nation. Scarcely a semblance of religion was found in the north.

      The Fall previous to our appointment the venerable Bishop Roberts had made a tour upon this portion, in company with Rev. E. R. Ames. On his return he remarked, with his characteristic good-humor, that "the nearest approach to Methodism he had seen in the country was a boy named Wesley.'" A short time after my arrival I was ferried across a stream by some boys of mixed colors, one of whom, a little quadroon, was called by his comrades "Wesley." Ah! thought I, I have found the Bishop's boy; here is the Methodism of this country.

      In some respects, the tone of public sentiment on points of morals is more elevated among these semi-civilized Indians than among their fully-civilized neighbors of the States. An incident may illustrate this. Conversing with a member of the Choctaw National Council, son to one of their exchiefs, I incidentally inquired the time of meeting of their Council. He replied "The first Monday in October." Correcting himself soon, he said "No; the first Tuesday in October. Formerly we met on Monday but this compelled us to travel on Sunday, which we were unwilling to do, and the day was changed."

      At the time of my coming among them, they were beginning to recover from the shock of removal. The climate proved healthy for them, their numbers were again on the increase, and some indications of general improvement in their condition were appearing.

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