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A DIARY OF ERASTUS F. BEADLE

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(Published by Courtesy of Dr. Frank P. O'Brien)

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INTRODUCTORY NOTE

     UPON the territory which was the goal of the writer of this diary the attention of America had been fixed for three years. In 1854 Congress passed a bill dividing the "Platte Country" into two territories, to be known as Kansas and Nebraska. Of greater significance, however, was the fact that the bill repealed the Missouri Compromise, extended the Fugitive Slave Law to the territories, and left the question of negro slavery within these territories to the decision of their inhabitants. In other words, it established "squatter sovereignty." The Kansas-Nebraska Act was one of the most far-reaching in effect in our history. It made slavery again a dangerous political problem. It led to the downfall of the Whig Party and the rise of the Republican Party; it aroused Abraham Lincoln once more from his waning interest in politics; it made the Fugitive Slave Law inoperative in the North; it wiped out the Democratic Party in New England, and after one more national victory brought that party into eclipse for twenty-five years.

     The question arose: should these new territories enter the Union as free or as slave states? The struggle began with which are associated such phrases as "border ruffians" and "Bleeding Kansas," and the name of John Brown. The attempt by the party of freedom and by the party of slavery to fill the territory, each with its own adherents, led to opposing governments and opposing constitutions, to violence and bloodshed. It ended, as did the greater contest of which it was the prelude, in a victory for freedom; slavery met one more defeat in its many attempts to extend its territory. Early in 1858, a few months after the close of this diary, the election took place which made it clear that Kansas was opposed to slavery. And Kansas was the battleground.

     This diary records the journey of a citizen of Buffalo to his preempted lands near Omaha, Nebraska, between March and October, 1857. It reflects the incidents of travel, especially on the rivers, the political sentiments of the day, the great emigration to the new territory, life in Nebraska, and toward the end, as the diarist returns, the financial panic of 1857. He hears, August 31, of the closing of the banks.

     Erastus F. Beadle, who wrote the diary, was born in Otsego County, New York, in 1821. Some account of his life was given in the Bulletin of The New York Public Library, July, 1922, in the article preceding the catalogue of the Beadle Collection, given to this Library by Dr. Frank P. O'Brien, the owner of this diary. About a year after his trip to Nebraska, Mr. Beadle moved to New York City. For many years he was senior partner of the firm of Beadle and Adams, chiefly known for publishing "Beadle's Dime Novels," - - a series which began in 1860.

     The spelling, punctuation, and capitalization of the manuscript have been followed.

     March 9^th 1857 --Left home with the intention of being absent longer than any previous trip I had ever taken from my own fireside. Still I had none of those feelings which usually possess me at parting with my nearest and dearest of friends and relatives. I had no realizing sence of any protracted absence more than I would feel on going to my daily business. Days previous to my departure however were days of deep thought and reflection. The simplest acts of my children were unusually interesting to me and remarks

that at any other time I would barely notice would make my heart swell and tears start unbidden in my eyes. But when the day for my departure arrived I was suffering with bodily ills of a more serious nature than I was willing to own and my mind was wholly occupied with those ills which were at the time painfull in the extreme. With as little ceremony as possible I bid goodby to my family and rode down to the depot chatting by the way with Irwin who "wanted to ride down with father." He was so taken up with his ride he was not inclined to get out of the sleigh and when I had bought my ticket and looked around to bid him good-by he was not to be found. He had remained in the sleigh where I found him bundled up playing the owner of the sleigh, as large as any one. I asked him if he was not going to bid me good-by? "Oh yes!" he says and the words he would have uttered in addition choked in his throat. He kissed me and when I had got a few feet from the sleigh he said Good-bye Pa! with a force to it I could but notice as coming from a full heart.

     Only a short time was occupied in reaching and crossing the ferry at Black Rock and getting under way on the Canada Side. The excitement of changing at Black Rock from cars to boat and boat to cars, had the effect to exhaust me considerable. For me at least, We were fortunate, in having but few passengers. I monopolized two whole seats near the stove and slept some before we reached Paris. At Paris we made the connection with the Great Western Cars. By the time we had reached London I began to regret my having left home in the condition I did. Continued to get sicker until about four o'clock p. m. when my feelings changed as if by Magic and I felt like a new being, ate a hearty supper on the boat crossing from Windsor to Detroit, and except from weakness and lassitude felt as well as I ever did in my life.

     At Detroit called on Mr. Frazer who gave me a pass to Michigan City. Got a seat in the cars near the stove. Left at 9.20 and slept some of the way to Marshal.

     Tusday 10^th  Walked from the Depot up to the Marshal House and went to bed a three o'clock A. M. Slept but little, at seven breakfasted and soon after got a buggy from the livery to take me up four Miles on the plank. had a pleasant but cold ride, found cousin's family all well. Cousin Joel Mack has a fine farm of 160 acres a good large frame house and is very comfortably situated, has a family of six children the two oldest boys who are married and living away by themselves the two next daughters one 20 the other 16 years of age, a boy 13 and the baby a girl of five years completes his list of children. His daughter of 16 is the largest of the children is a perfect picture of My Sister Sybil when I last saw her and the baby is just another such a person as was Sister Emily at her age. The more I saw them the more I saw a resemblance both in looks and actions, but I do not believe Abigail the one resembling Sybil will live long she has a hard cough which I believe will prove fatal. My stay at Cousin Joels was a pleasant one. Cousin is a great speller and gramarian is a boy with his children and joins in their studies his Wife is just such a farmers wife as others I have seen.

     The Most interesting member of the family however was Aunt Abigail. In most respects she bears her eighty-five winters remarkably well, in walking she uses a cain and stands in a stooping position exactly as does Mrs. Hodge. She will weigh about 175 lbs. her weight in health was 200. She some resembles Uncle Chauncy in feature, but she has the eyes and nose of My father. I spent the day wholly with her most agreeably and instructive. She would ask me many questions about my Uncles and Aunts, and in a few hours ask much the same questions. Then she would remember she had asked before and received the same answer. When I informed her that all her Mothers and first step mothers children were dead she would remark with tears and a trembling voice "Yes they are all gone not one of my old acquaintance is living all are in their graves and why am I left? Yes and I have buried two husbands and eight of my ten children" She could not speak of the past without tears, not even of the days when she was a little girl and went to the village school of Colchester Con. which was about a half mile from her fathers house and Shop  When she spoke of the death of her first stepmother she wept like a child. She was the only Mother she ever knew and was one of the best of Mothers to her. "A few days before she died" says Aunt "She nursed Flavel then but ten Months old, kissed him and handed him to me and said she should never nurse him again, gave him to me as my child and said I must have him sleep with me and he kind and good to him for he never would know what it was to have a Mother to care for him and I always felt he was my child" When Aunt told this she would manifest as much grief as she could have done the day her Mother died. Her grief was monitory as that of a child.

     Her bodily health and apetite is as good as it ever was and she can eat as wholesome food, she is but very little care, occupies her own corner with her own chair and table she used when young eats by herself and lives within herself, reads but little except her bible that is her all. She read over the old family Record of uncle James a number of times and expressed no little surprise she should have remembered her own age  She was pleased to have me ask her for her degareotype but said she had no money to get it taken with but would go up and sit for it had never had one taken.

     Wednesday 11  Slept comfortably last night and for the first time in years between woollen sheets in the regular old fashioned style. After a late breakfast Cousin harnessed to a cutter we helped Aunt in and started for Marshal  Cousin was the first setler where he now lives, his team made the first waggon track where now the planck road runs  The vicinity is thickly settled with wealthy farmers and fine farm buildings.

     Aunt bore her ride well walked up and down stairs without assistance. The artist who took her picture does not understand his business and made a picture I did not fancy  If Mr Evans had had such a subject he would have done it justice but a poor opperator a poor subject poor tools poor stock alltogether  what more could be expected

     When all was ready to start, Aunt comfortably seated in the sleigh, she took hold of me to bid me good bye and thank me for having her picture taken. She said "When you write to your mother and your wife and children remember

me with love to them, remember me to my brothers and sisters living and Erastus remember your Creator!" Aunt has been a very intelligent woman for her time or for the times in which she has lived. I wish I could be where she was a month.

     Leaving the deguerrean room I went to the depot  learned that the cars had run off the track and were three hours behind time did not get away until Six P. M. and reached Michigan City at a little past eleven the same night, but 20 Minutes too late for the Cars the next train was to leave the next day at ten A. M. I accordingly went to the Jewell house and to bed.

     On leaving Marshall a Novelty presented itself, in the form of a little boy about Irwin's age and hight but more chubby he followed the business of making speeches on the cars and then passing around his hat. He understood the business to perfection. When he first commenced his hat off and his hair brussled up I thought him crazy but soon discovered my mistake. He had a powerful voice and could controll it like an orritor every one could here him in the car and the speed was 30 miles an hour. A new way to raise the wind.

     Thursday 12  A clear and stinging cold morning. Time hanging heavily I walked out to see the town as soon as the sun was up sufficiently to warm the atmosphere. Michigan City is in Indiana on the shoar of Lake Michigan is the junction of the new Albany and Salem R. R. is a fine place for a town but can never amount to much, as a city. It is somewhat protected from the winds of the lake by very high bluffs rising near two or three hundred feet. These bluffs have some shrubberry and scattering oaks, and covered with sand from the lake which is thrown up in drifts by the high and almost constant blowing wind. The present covering of the bluffs is composed of about equal parts of snow and sand, and this morning was froze as hard as ice still I succeeded in reaching the top of the highest bluf by pulling myself up by the shrubs and crawling on my hands and knees in real Mount blanc style. From the top of the bluff I could see for one hundred miles in all directions and could easily imagine myself one of the daring adventurers of Mt. Blanc itself on a small scale.

     The time passed as easily as I could expect and at 10.10 A. M. I left on the cars in a direct South course. For the first ninety miles the country was mostly prarrie and wet at that, and the most untractible country I ever saw it is a Hoosier" state in earnest. The buildings were nothing but the poorest kind of logg huts, and unless you saw some human animals you would not think they were inhabited, all they raise is corn and pork. This also constitutes their sole diet spiced with the "shakes" without which they think they could not live they make as much calculations about having the shakes fall and spring as they to to have the seasons themselves come and go in fact they coud not live if they did not have the shakes half the time. Whole fields of corn were only cut up and stood out all winter, on account of the shakes taking them too soon in many places they were drawing in their corn.

     Near many of the log huts, some of which were deserted I noticed small enclosures formed by driving short stakes in the ground a few inches apart

and but two or three feet high. These varied in size from ten to one hundred feet square. Internally they presented no different appearance from the immediate vicinity which convinced me they were not gardens. On inquiry I was told they were graveyards. Many of which contained whole familys. These yards were usually in a few rods of the house and in many locations were the only show of improvement or civilization.

     Every hours progress we made we could see we was fast leaving the vicinity of snow, and when we reached Lafayette at 3.30 P. M. there was but very little snow to be seen. About 2 oclock we saw black birds and Meadow larks and soon after leaving Lafayette large flocks of prairie hens.

     At 7 P. M. we reached Indianapolis where we were obliged to wait until Eleven P. M. before starting for Cincinnati. This evening was a delightful one not cold enough to require winter over coats and seemed like an April night at home.

     Friday 13  Reached Cincinnati five o'clock this Morning and put up at the "Burett House" had an early breakfast made a scedule of my business for the day and at nine o'clock had all my business that called me to Cincinnati done. Got My boots by Express from Buffalo found them too large by two or three sizes so I am almost bootless.

     Nine o'clock commenced searching for James Pennington searched all day but withous success. A marked change in the atmosphere between this place and where I was yesterday morning. There was good sleighing and the thermometer near Zero here they were wattering broadway to keep down dust

     Cincinnati at this season of the year is remarkably brisk the principal exports I saw was whisky pork and ready made buildings which is a great business here. The levee is litteraly crowded with boxes, barrels, carts drays &c and every steamer crowding on freight altogether it is the busyest place I ever saw.

     At five oclock P. M. Took passage on board the steam Packet Memphis bound for Memphis and Hickman Tenn. The officers of the boat protested against the large amount of freight the proprietors put on, as there was but a little over five feet water on the bars and the boat was loaded down to a draught of near seven feet. In this state we left at ten o'clock at night soon after I had retired

     Saturday 14  Had made good headway during the night but about ten o'clock A. M. when within 20 miles of Louisville we grounded, and remained there until ten at night. Could only get off by getting two flat boats and taking out some one hundred ton to lighten her. These flat boats are kept along the river for this purpose and are called lighters. The bed of the Ohio is hard gravel and a boat can not work off as on the sand bars of the Missouri. We have a variety of passengers some fifty in all mostly Southerners they all take me for a Southerner. We have a "Nigger" trader on board

     Sunday 15 -- A delightfull day. More like the Middle of May in Buffalo than the 15th of March. It has been a day of anxious watching for Captain crew and passengers, as the barge from Cincinnati has been hourly expected but has failed to reach us. I have walked over the principal parts of the City

in Company with a young man from Philadelphia. Louisville like Cincinnati presents a very dingy appearance owing to burning so much coal. The Streets are wide and well supplied with shade trees which are much needed in the summer which are very warm here. Towards Evening we walked up in the vicinity of the best residence which was quite a treat to Me doors and windows were thrown open, and Ladies were out on the steps and balconies with nothing on their heads, and dressed in late spring dresses. It was in great contrast with the previous Sunday in Buffalo which was like mild winter

     We saw during the day a number of funerals The hearses in use here are glazed on both sides and ends rendering the coffin wholly visible. The Hearse is painted black and trimed with silver on the sides the top is ornamented with four clusters of Prince of Wales plumes on each side. It is altogether quite a showy vehicle and is used for the poor classes as well as the rich

     Louisville has a large number of coulered people about 3000 of which are slaves. they are probably cared better for than any city in the Union.

     Monday 16 -- Last evening was very pleasantly spent in the Cabin. We have a large number of passengers mostly Southerners a fair proportion of Ladies all of which could sing and play on the piano. We had a sociable time. Those of us that were married showed the degareotypes of our wives and children I took the premium. they said they look like Northerners, supposing I was a Southerner. They said they were "right fine" looking and a "heap prettier" than I was. I knew they only wanted to flatter me and took it for what it was worth

     An affray took place in the forward cabin on Saturday Night that came near resulting in the loss of life. The parties were from Mississipi were engage in card playing until a late hour and drinking freely used their revolvers and bowie knives. they think no more of shooting at each other than the people North do of taking a round with the fist

     I got acquainted with a number of gentlemen from the South some merchants others professional men. They were extremely warm hearted. They consider the use of the revolver as honorable a way of settling a dispute or punishing an insult as any plan that can be adopted. The strong Man has not there the advantage. It is their education and they succeed in making out a quite a case in their favor

     On going to bed last evening we were in hopes to be on our way again before morning as the barge was still expected  Morning came however and we were still at the levee in Louisville. My patience was exhausted this was the day we was to have been in Memphis, and now the Captain told us it would take three to four days after the barge came to get to Memphis. I went up town after breakfast and found I could take the cars to St. Louis one dollar less than at Cincinnati. I returned to the boat and the Captain refunded all of my passage money except $2.50  So that it cost me only $1.50 extra to go by Louisville. Many of the passengers left the boat as I did while others remained. I should have remained if I could have spared the time as I never was on a steamer where they lived as well as they did on the Memphis. The boat is noted for the table it sets.

     At Noon there was no news from the barge. The R. R. omnibuss called at the boat for me took me to the ferry thence to the depot of the New Albany and Salem R. R. and at 1.50 P. M. We left, reached Greencastle behind time but the cars waited five minutes enabling us to get aboard. Changed cars again at Terre Haute and Vincenes.

     Tuesday 17. -- From Vincenes reached Sandoval about Eight o'clock A. M. Found no Cars to Centralia until one in the afternoon  I accordingly checked My baggage to Centralia and started on foot the distance Six Miles. I found it a very pleasant walk indeed Most of the way was prairie. One grove however of about one mile was a pleasant variety. It was filled with birds which made me halt a number of times to listen to the variety of noises they made. Among the number was a Mocking bird and the Cardinal Grosebeak or Red Bird neither of them get as far North as New York. I have seen No robins yet.

     I came in Sight of Centralia when about two Miles distant from the town. My imagination located Harriets residence and all of the particulars. I had it in the south east part of the village on the open prarie without a yard fence or any thing of the Kind. When near enough to distinguish the buildings I selected one, a Story and a half white house with two conspicuous side windows visible one and a half miles off. That is the place I remarked aloud and laughed heartily all to myself. I ploded on into the heart of the town, at the depot I inquired where Hugh Baily lived was informed that it was in the 'Coponys Row' a little east. Next enquired at a Stoor and was pointed out the very house I had selected on first coming in sight of the town. I shall have to believe in Spiritualism I think after this. Entered Harriets house as familiar as though I belonged there, and without nocking. I believe she jumped some and seemed pleased to see Me They are living as comfortable as can be considering the house is not finished. Bally soon came into dinner and was heartily glad to see me. I left with him at two o'clock and rode on his engine down to Cairo got there at 8 P. M. tried to get passage to Memphis but found the fare $10. I backed out sudden. Supposed it but $8. Got into the mud up to my knees went with Mr. Baily to bed.

     Wednesday 18 -- Left Cairo on my return with Mr. Baily at 6 A. M. reached Centralia at Noon. Set by the fire visited and played with the baby during the balance of the day.

     Thursday 19 -- A warm and pleasant day Baily drawed fence lumber and had his garden ploughed. I walked about the Town Wrote and slept some and got well rested. Centralia is more of a town than I expected to find has some 1500 population. Harriet has a fine baby as any one has. its hair is red and I believe always will be  It has a bad cold and I fear threatened with the croop. Mr. Baily and Hat. would not hear to my leaving under a week at least, and seemed dissatisfied when I decided to leave the next day  I fared sumptuously. Had a pressing invitation to have my family come out and stop a month or even three of them before going West.

     Friday 20 --Left Centralia half past twelve at night. Hat. set up and had a breakfast ready for me and Mr. Baily as he had to go out to Cairo again at two o'clock. Left the baby very poorly.

     Harriet Keeps a girl a big dog and hens. I think if any one takes comfort it is them they are as loving as two kittens

     We reached St. Louis between five and six in the Morning. At The Barnum House I found a letter from Frank and Robert Adams but very much to my surprise not a line from wife or children. After breakfast went down to the boats  No boats were going further up than St. Joseph. Ice reported 30 inches thick at Omaha and teams crossing. This presented a dubious aspect. I had hurried to get away and hurried all the way and here I am two weeks too early  This gave me the blues a little and I Knew not what course to pursue. In this dillema I went in search of my Cousin. found two brothers of Cousin Benjamin. They were Alfred and James H. The former has a wife and nine children. James has a wife but has lost all his children he is two years younger than I am. Took dinner and went up to supper and spent a short time in the evening.

     Returning to My Hotel I had decided to go back to Harriets and stop a week or ten days until the ice was out of the river and I could get a passage to Omaha. With this determination I went to bed.

     Saturday 21 -- Arose early, examined the register of arrivals and found the name of G. W. Brown of Laurence he had come in the afternoon previous from Chicago but was not yet up. I took breakfast and then went to his room. And our meeting was decidedly a joyous to both. He insisted on my going to Laurence With him and make his house my home until I could take passage up the river. His wife would be in from Alton in time to go out with us. I accordingly abandoned going back to Harriets, and set about making preparations to accompany Mr Brown into Kansas. At 2 P. M. we left in the Cars for Jefferson City where we were to meet the R. R. Company's daily line of steamers for Weston and intermediate points. Our tickits taking us through.

     Our party from St Louis consisted of Mr Brown and his wife, A Mrs. Leavett and her two daughters ten and six years of age. We had a very pleasant time on the cars Mr. Brown Fathered one of Mrs. L.'s children and I took Mrs Brown under My care. Mrs. Leavett and family were among the number that were driven out of Leavenworth last summer, and lost all they had. They are now located at Wyandot, where Mr. Leavett now is. Mrs. L. is going out to join him. Mrs. Leavett is one of the fire brands of the freestates party her tongue is constantly busy. She has been east Making speeches and getting Subscribers for Mr Browns paper. She has become desperate and if necessity requires it she will take up the muskett and revolver before she will be again driven away from her home. She is ready for an argument with any one even on spiritualism. Mrs Brown is a more quiet woman and looks like a person that has been tried as she has been.

     We were informed at St Louis that the two boats were usually crowded, so that when the whistle blew at Jefferson City every person had their carpet

sack in hand to make a spring for the boat when the cars should stop. And when they did stop down they went in a mass like a flock of sheep tumbling over each other in the dark, (it was eight o'clock at night) But lo and behold not a berth stool or plank was unoccupied. The daily boats due were aground up the river, and the one in, the New Lucy had been damaged and could not leave until the next day in the afternoon when her damages would probably be repaired. No boat had been in for three days that belonged to the line and two trains of cars per day loaded as thick as they could stand, had poured into the city, and as soon as the New Lucy reached her landing she was swarmed and every room taken. Our chances were to hang up on a hook. Finding the Capt. he proved to be no less a person than the Pilot of the Wm. Campbell the boat I came down on last fall. He recognized me at once and fixed out two rooms which were given up to the Ladies and Mr Brown. Next in Order Mr. Brown and Myself went up town to get supper. Not having dinner we felt the want of supper. We set down to a table that was about all got a cup of cold coffee a small biscuit one cracker and that was all Charges only 50 cents each  Returning to the boat Mr Brown Made a miss step and tumbled into a gulph about five feet deep with a Mud bottom, tore his clothes some and hurt him a little, but not sufficient to prevent us from laughing heartily. We scraped mud for some time then he ventured on the boat. I walked in front to screen him from to conspicuous a view. When reaching the ladies cabin we quickend our pace again Mr Brown met with a casualty run his head against one of the branches of the chandelier nocked off the globe smashing it in a thousand pieces. Every eye was turned in the direction. There he stood watching the fragments and covered with mud. A more ludicrus scene I have seldom beheld and if he had killed himself I could not help but laugh. He got into his room and there remained for the night.

     About this time the porters comenced turning down the chairs along along the state room doors completely blocking up the entrance or exits through the door. This being done they brough in a lot of Mattresses arranging them along one end on the chair backs to serve as a pillow. I took the hint and made fast to one then came a general strife to see who should have a bed  About one half were accommodated. Some had a mattress some a pillow others a blanket. Covering about two thirds of cabin floor, one would laugh another sing and a third curse, those that could get no chance to sleep done all they could to prevent others from sleeping and kickt up a general uproar until they got exhausted and we at last got to sleep. I was soare from laughing at the vanity of disposition, one was for fun another kept up a constant growl. those however who said least fared best. I have often heard people tell of a crowd, but this beat all.

     Sunday 22 -- This morning another amusing scene was enacted which will probably be repeted three times per day during the trip. There are three hundred passengers on board and only table room for some Seventy five. Who was to be first at table was the all engrossing Subject as soon as preparations were commenced for breakfast. It was with difficulty that the waiters could get around to put the dishes on the tables. I saw at once that those without

ladies must of necessity fare slim I accordingly secured Mrs. Leavett for meal times which was for me very fortunate. the table had to be cleared and set again four times before all the passengers were served. The fare is of the poorest kind I ever saw on a steamboat even at the first tables. Females were in great demand at meal times even little girls that went free were engaged for the trip in order to secure a seat at the first table. We have two large and very amusing men by the name of Martin from Flint Mich who are brothers they take girls of 11 and 9 years to the table as their ladies. We are all becoming acquainted and are anticipating a pleasant time. On showing my degareotypes Mr Martin recollected seeing Mate somewhere. It was at Flint this is how I became acquainted with him, he knows Lib. and Cook. He says Mrs. Cook is one of the finest women in Flint and has the most Friends of any one in the city and that I ought to be proud of her sister for a wife

     Mr. Brown and myself have had a stroll about the city  the town does not amount to much except as the Capital of Mo. Our boat was repaired about noon but we were obliged to wait until the three o'clock cars came in as one of the pilots had gone down to St. Louis. Our steam was up ready to start as soon as the pilot should come on board so as to prevent the rush of passengers from the train. They came however like an avalanche covering our forecastle as thick as they could stand. They were ordered off on another boat of the same line going out the next day among the crowd of new comers I saw and spoke with three Buffalo men, Lawyer Grey Mr. Metz and a young man whom I cannot call by name was once a clerk at Calendars.

     During the day I have made the acquaintance of a Mr Smith who together with his wife is going to Omaha to establish themselves in business. He is a small man about the size of Mr. Cook and of the same business. His wife is a very tall woman, reminds me of Mrs. Newman She is a graduate of some of our eastern seminaries and has herself been for a term of years a principal. She hopes to be enabled to establish an institution of learning at Omaha I think she would be just the woman for such an enterprise. I shall use my influence. I should be ready then to take my family to Omaha.

     On the arrival of the cars which brought up our pilot, this Mr. Smith went up to look after some baggage which came on the train. He succeeded in getting the baggage nearly to the boat when it put out, and would not return. You may imagine the feelings of his wife who was obliged to remain on this boat while her husband must stop over a day and come on the next boat. There are a number on this boat going to Omaha some of which will stop with her at Weston until her husband arrives.

     Some seven miles above Jefferson City is the worst sand-bar on the route and as we expected or feared we got fast on it in company with other boats  some had been there 48 hours, this was not a very pleasant prospect for us. We made the best of it however and concluded too sleep on it. This night I succeeded in getting a state room in company with Mr. Carver of Buffalo. (He is the man with whom Desdimona boarded.) He had a room for himself and his two sons, his two sons slept together giving me a birth to myself which I

appreciate. I could not retire until I had seen the sport in the Main cabin of staking or marking out claims and securing a place to straiten out in for the night. This evening we had a fine thunder shower.

     Monday 23 -- Early this morning one of the Steamers on the barr, the "Star of the West" got off and passed up. Soon after this the "Col. Crossman" which left St. Louis the day before we did, and which we passed on the cars, came up and crossed the barr without difficulty cheering loudly as they passed us. The "Crossman" stoped a Mile up to wood. In the mean time we came up along side of them to wood also. In swinging around we came in collission with the Crossman and smashed in our wheelhouse on the same side the previous injury was sustained. Again we were disable, and when the Crossman left we lashed to the shoar for repairs where we remained in an uneasy state of axiety until after eight o'clock at night.

     The early part of the day was rainy. The afternoon was dry and pleasant. The scenery on the shore grand. Mr. Brown and myself invited some ladies to attempt to gain the top of a rock which we had been admiring all the day  It is by far the loftiest rock I have yet seen it towred far above the loftiest trees. On the side next the river it was perpendicular over 200 feet high and scalloped out like a chimney and for want of a better name we called it "Chimney rock." We ascended by climbing up the bank which in the rear of the rock extended to within 50 feet of the top We then got up one at a time to a secure foothold and pulled the others after us, reaching the top we gave three cheers for free Kansas. Fifty persons could stand upon the top of the rock, our company consisted of some eight or ten. I did not venture to look off at the brink as others did, at first I was too timid to stand erect. We gathered some moss as relics and carved our names in the rock and on the limbs of trees along the side of the path by which we ascended. We all agreed that our visit to the top of "Chimney rock" had well paid us for the delay we were subjected to by the accident to our boat.

     When I took the cars at Sandoval on Friday morning at one o'clock, every seat was occupied. Noticing a gentleman whose countenance pleased me, I asked and received a share of his seat. We conversed most of the way to St Louis. his manner of speaking was exceedingly pleasant and he bore a striking resemblance to Uncle Chauncy except he was not corpulent his height is Six feet six inches, and he is one of the noblest looking men I ever saw. He was an old resident of Missouri. I was exceedingly loth to part with him as I did at the ferry opposite St. Louis, and equally pleased to meet him again at "The Barnum House"  In the afternoon of the same day I again met him on the levvy as he was about to take the cars for Jefferson City en route home. We parted here as old friends neither knowing the others name. On Sunday Morning at Jefferson City we again met. He had been waiting for the boat to be repaired. Was stoping in the city with his daughter, was going up on the same boat, had with him a niece and a little slave he was taking up to a friend and neighbor of his.

     I think I have never met with a man that pleased me as well. I also think I have learned much that will be of service to me in the way of business in the     

© 2001 for the NEGenWeb Project by Pam Rietsch, Ted & Carole Miller