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by Bishop and Campbell. I consider the improvement of as Game
Creek mountains important; and this could be done by the same
party but the building of a road to avoid them is a more difficult
matter: and, as a contingency, must be guided entirely by your
view of the application of the fund remaining.
I kept a line of express open
between California and the Pass all last season; and the same
efficient mountaineer, William Bodes, who travels alone with his
rifle and blanket, can do it again, and state at what time the
western end of the road is ready for emigrants.
It is my opinion that all large jobs
of work on this road can be more cheaply done by contract than in
any other manner. I also suggest this mode as enabling you to
confine the expenditures to strict limits, the contingencies of
wild interior travel often creating large margins when government
expeditions are in the field. Direct orders, as to the amount to
he expended under contract, would prevent overrunning the
appropriation.
Very respectfully, your obedient
servant,
F. W.
LANDER,
Superintendent, &c., &c.
HON.
JACOB THOMPSON,
Secretary of the Interior.
WASHINGTON, February 29, 1860.
SIR: In
your instructions, dated St. Joseph's, Mo., April 28, you say: I
am instructed by the Department of the Interior to endeavor to
improve the line of the overland wagon road from City of Rocks to
Honey Lake. I have already furnished you with a transcript of this
portion of the honorable Secretary's letter. My experience of your
character and acknowledged ability fully justifies me in placing
you in charge of an advance exploration to furnish to me
information of the country over which it is proposed to take this
line. You will, therefore, with the transportation for which you
have receipted, proceed directly to Soda Springs where you will
either find Mr. J. C. Campbell, or will be compelled to await his
early arrival.
"Make a quick trip to Isis Springs,
then move more slowly to the country of exploration."
In answer to these instructions, I
have the honor to make the following report:
I left the winter camp at Troy,
Kansas Territory, April 30, passed Fort Kearney May 8, Fort
Laramie May 17, and arrived at the South Pass May 27; making the
trip in 24 travelling days, the other time, of 21 days, we were
delayed at Fort Laramie in changing mules and taking in
provisions. On La Bonté creek we were detained by high
water, and on Sweet Water, in the neighborhood of Split Rock, by
two severe snow storms. Notwithstanding the inclement weather, and
the fast time we made, the mules were in good order, the grass on
Platte river and on Sweet Water being abundant although short. Mr.
C. C. Wrenshall accompanied me to South ran, and left my party on
Little Sandey, for Salt Lake City, to bring to Soda Springs
provisions
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and the property of the expedition left at Salt Lake City in
charge of Mr. J. C. Campbell.
I made a halt on Green river to
engage Thomas Pembrun as interpreter for the Western Sho-sho-nees.
He was encamped on Ham's Fork, on the Fort Bridger road. He was
informed by Mr. Wrenshall of my coming and of my desire to obtain
his services, and soon after joined us. There was a freshet in all
the creeks emptying into Bear river, so that we were compelled to
mend the bridges over Ham's and Thomas' Fork and to erect a new
one over Smith's Fork, as the readiest means of passing these
streams safely with our train. We arrived at Soda Springs on the
10th of June. Thomas Pembrun, the engaged interpreter, here took
his discharge; an old disease, having broken out, disabled him
from making long rides or undergoing the necessary privations. He
also expressed his opinion that the western Indians would not
permit us to make the exploration embraced in your
instructions.
We met Messrs. Campbell and
Wrenshall on the big bend of Bear river, June 17. After exchanging
some mules and receiving a supply of flour we took the old
emigrant road, known as Hedspeth's cut-off, making a complete
survey of it. The road, in many places, is very rocky, the grades
very steel), and there is one drive without water of 22 1/4 miles;
the grass, in general, was good and sufficient. This road crosses
Willow and Dempsey's creeks, tributaries of Porto-neuf, touches
"the bend of Porto-neuf," and passing over an undulating country,
crosses Marsh creek and over the intervening high bill ranges, to
Mountain Willow creek, Lanette creek, and Malade river, tributary
of Bear river; here it again crosses same, divides between the
Salt Lake basin and the Snake river, and intersects the Fort Hall
road on the upper part of Raft creek.
The interview with Po-co-ta-roh and
his band, whom we met on Raft creek, and the other Indians in the
road, is referred to in that portion of my report relating more
particularly to Indians.
We arrived at City of Rocks June
26th. From this point the road passed down to some small branches
of Raft creek, all of which will furnish water until about the 1st
of August; but a few springs north of the road and Granite Spring
at the eastern slope of the dividing ridge, between Raft creek and
Goose creek, furnish water all the year round. Gross is abundant
north of the line in the upper part of the valley.
The descent to Goose creek over the
road as it now exists is very severe, the rocks and steep grades
render the passage of it very difficult for stock and wagons.
A reconnaissance for a new road was
made by Mr. R. L. Poor, which showed the practicability of a new
and much better descent in following down a small spring branch.
Goose Creek Valley is trav-
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ersed for a distance of 22 miles and furnishes a good supply of
grass. A few improvements would be desirable, such as sloping down
the banks of tributaries and removing the rocks at the entrance of
a short cañon at the bead of the creek.
The road, after leaving Goose creek,
runs over an undulating country to Rock Spring. There is scarcely
any grass to be found, the valley being covered with sage bushes
and grease wood. Cold Spring affords in the early part of the
summer bottom grass, and the adjacent hills bunch grass; but in
the latter part of the season there will none be found till the
middle and upper part of Thousand Spring valley is reached. In the
middle part of Thousand Spring Valley are some sloughs with alkali
water, but Only One spring has good water, though not in
sufficient quantities for droves of cattle, This will be found
further west in Hot Spring creek, coming in from the northwest,
the valley which furnishes grass. A tolerably good road leads over
a ridge and down to the headwaters of the Humboldt river. The
Humboldt wells have always cold, excellent water, and the vicinity
affords both bottom and bunch grass. The road forks here - one
branch running on the south, the other on the north side of the
river. The north side is much preferable on account of the easier
grades over bluffs and better grazing. Humboldt cañon at
several points is very narrow. The rock walls being almost
perpendicular, by their disintegrations they fall down and
sometimes partially obstruct the road.
Improvements have been made, but
much is still left to be done. The road on the south side of the
cañon passes over some deep-cut gulleys just as dangerous
to a wagon. The road is good between Humboldt and Fremont's
cañon, but the same condition as in first-named
cañon is found here. The road crosses the river four times
on gravelly bottom. On Maggie creek the road leaves the river and
passes the hills over loose rocks and a few steep grades to
Gravelly Ford. This is the nature of the road till it strikes the
river again, a distance of ten miles below the ford. There are no
difficulties between here and Stoney Point with the exception of
sloping down the banks of a spring branch and some sloughs.
The road is good to the dividing
line of the Sho-sho-nee and the Pah-utah tribes. It avoids here a
small cañon through which the river winds, going over the
hills. A good road to Tutt's Meadows in the bend of the river; a
small spring branch has to be crossed; the lower crossing has
muddy bottom, the upper is good. A good gravelly road extends to
Lassen's Meadows, where it forks again - one part going down
Humboldt river to Carson Valley, the other to Honey Lake Valley. A
good road runs from the Meadows to Antelope Spring, where good
water is found, but grass is scarce; thence over an undulating
country and two hill ranges to Rabbit Hole Springs. Water is found
in holes from which it can be dipped with a bucket; good road
hence to Hot Springs at the eastern border of Mud Lake; a short
distance below the springs cattle may be watered, but grass is
scarce; through Mud Lake to Granite Springs good cool water can be
obtained, and grass in a ravine to the northwest. A good road to
Deep Hole Springs, good grass and water; hence to Buffalo Springs,
water in holes in sufficient quantity; grass in the
neighborhood.
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Over a road, rocky in a few
places, to the lower part of Bush Valley; water sinks before it
emerges out of the cañon and is found only in holes; but
the middle and upper parts of Bush Valley have good running water
and abundant grass. Leaving this valley we come to Mud Spring;
good water; grass will be found in a ravine southeast of the
spring. The road, after leaving Mud Spring, is very rocky till it
arrives on the dividing ridge, Honey Lake Valley. Honey Lake
Valley affords the emigrant every facility to recruit stock, and
in the tipper part to obtain a supply of provisions. An annexed
guide for emigrants gives a synopsis of the above description of
the country, with the distances, and other useful information.
The first reconnoissance was made
down Goose creek; the valley is narrow, with two cañons in
18 miles, a few spring branches emptying into it, then it widens
and runs through rolling hills for five miles, where a
considerable tributary comes in. From here the creek runs in the
open Snake River Valley, furnishing abundant grass after it leaves
the mountains; along its tributaries and on the adjacent hills
bunch grass is found.
The north fork of Goose creek runs
most of its course in a canon, has not much grass, and its bottom
is subject to overflow from the beaver-dams.
The country north of Rock Spring
has, on the dividing ridge between Goose creek and Holmes' creek,
good bunch grass; but the bottom is stoney, and therefore dried up
by the middle of July. Springs are found on the hill slopes, but
few will last longer than the melting of the snow on the
mountains, and these are indicated by the thick bunches of willow
and quaking aspens.
The dividing ranges between Bishop's
creek, Holmes' creek, and Owghee river are the highest mountains
in the country explored. They show many peaks in the early part of
August still covered with snow, very rugged, rocky, and
intersected by deep ravines, through which swift currents of water
flow. These ravines have in general a growth of quaking aspens and
sometimes of cotton-wood trees. The hill sides show stunted cedar
trees and a few of mountain mahogany.
The western main branches of Holmes'
creek join in a deep and narrow cañon through which they
flow. At the end of the cañon is a valley extending
southwards from which a few small creeks come in, but sink about
half a mile before they reach the main stream. Hence the creek
breaks through a mountain range and flows in a wide bottom for 16
miles, forming many sloughs and some miry places. This lower
bottom has good grass, but it soon after enters again a
cañon with perpendicular rock walls varying from 50 to 150
feet in height. Close to the cañon and above the fork of an
eastern branch we found the only ford with gravelly bottom. The
banks were steep above and muddy; width of the creek here 15 feet
by 3 feet deep. Eighteen miles further down, where the creek flows
in a rolling plain extending to Snake river, its rock walls are
still 50 feet high.
Between the mountain range, through
which the Humboldt river
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breaks and forms the Humboldt cañon and Bishop's creek
its next western tributary, is a wide valley covered with sage
brushes. Several small creeks break out of the eastern mountain
ranges through canons and deep-cut ravines; but all sink before
they reach the middle of the valley. The upper part of the valley
of the north fork of Humboldt river is wide, but has only grass
along its water courses the other part is covered with sage
brush
The upper part of Maggie creek has
good pasturage on hill sides, but lower down and in the valley
itself sage brush alone is found.
The mountain ranges north of
Gravelly Ford and Stoney Point have springs and a few creeks
flowing in cañons; but they sink as soon as they emerge in
that wide valley, sometimes in less than a mile's distance.
The country affords little game. A
few antelopes and some deer were seen; rabbits of a large size,
sage hens, and grouse are frequently met with. The creeks furnish
speckled and salmon trouts and other fish, and their banks are
studded with currant bushes, the dried fruit of which is one of
the chief supplies of the Indians in winter time.
A road from the head of Goose
creek, where the present emigrant road leaves it, can be built to
Holmes' creek without much expense. From Holmes' creek to the
upper valley of Bishop's creek considerable earth excavation is
required, and, notwithstanding this, steep grades will be
unavoidable. The same is the case to the southern branch of Owyhee
river. Hence, a good location can be found to the north fork of
Humboldt river; following up a tributary, a good gal leads to the
upper part of Maggie creek; from here, we again cross over to
water flowing into Owyhee river. There are several gaps of easy
ascent. Hence, not much difficulty to crossing the Stoney Point
range, where the passes are very rocky and steep; thence through a
wide valley to the Pah-ne Utah and Sho-sho-me line.
The cost of building a practicable
road for emigrants through these parts will be great, and then it
has these disadvantages, that in summer time, when the emigration
arrives, the grass will be dry and scarce, and some of the spring
branches will not supply sufficient water.
The gain in time and distance will
be very inconsiderable, if any. There are so many ridges and
narrow valleys or wide bottoms without water, to pass, that I
consider the Humboldt River road preferable. 'When the emigrant or
the cattle driver takes the necessary precautions, and does not
let his animals drink out of sloughs, which always contain alkali,
and when he is careful with his fire, then the grass along the
Humboldt river will sustain a very large emigration.
A road with little cost can be built
from the Oregon road on Snake river along Holme's creek, either to
the Humboldt wells or Thousand Spring Valley. From Snake river to
the foot hills not much grass will be found except along the water
courses. The first difficulty will be in bridging the creek and
going through a cañon about one mile long, the divide
between this and Hot Spring creek being low.
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The foregoing report contains
such information as I have been able to obtain of the country
designated in your instructions, and is, with the accompanying
map, submitted to your approval.
While detained several days at Soda
Springs, I took the opportunity to verify the observations for
latitude made in 1857, about the accuracy of which there was some
doubt. I found, by repeated observations, that the springs were
placed too far south on the former maps, and have made the
necessary correction on one of this year's operations.
In compliance with your
directions to make a brief report of my intercourse with the
Indians while in charge of the advance party, I have the honor to
say, that after leaving the South Pass we saw only a few lodges of
Eastern Sho-sho-nees encamped on Green river. The main body of
that tribe were on the eastern slope of the Wind River mountains.
Passing from Green river we met none until we reached Soda
Springs, where a single Indian came into our camp to trade some
beaver skins. He belonged to the Sheepeaters tribe from the
headwaters of Lewis Fork, and disclaimed any connection with the
Bannocks. He informed me of the departure of the Bannocks for the
mountains north of Snake river. It appears that they were afraid
of the retaliations of traders or United States soldiers for their
depredations committed on Green river and its vicinity last
winter.
On the head of Raft creek, near City
of Rocks, we were expected and met by Pocotaroh and a party of his
band amounting to 15 warriors. He remembered the conditional
promise given by you in the fall of 1858 to return the ensuing
season and bring some presents.
These Indians appeared destitute,
almost, of the necessaries of life, and received with the greatest
joy the presents I was directed by you to distribute among them.
They were given blankets, cloth, handkerchiefs, knives, paints,
and many other trifles, to which I added some flour.
Descending to Goose creek we met
several men of the band under the chief Ne-met-teh. They were
hunting in the Goose Creek mountains. I tried to engage one of
them as guide, but the presence of some companies of the United
States army, under the command of Major Lynde, intimidated them so
much that they left. again for the mountains. The same was the
case in Thousand Spring Valley, in the upper part of which we saw
several bands of Weber River Indians. On Hot Spring creek about 45
warriors came into the camp; inquired our intentions and those of
the soldiers; avowed their honesty; that they had never stolen
cattle or robbed emigrants. They received presents and departed
without further molesting us, although only 6 persons were in camp
at the time, the other members of my party being out on
reconnoissance. On the upper part of Humboldt river several lodges
were encamped. We saw, nightly, their camp fires 3 or 4 miles from
the road at the foot of the mountains. Many of them came into our
camp begging and went away fully satisfied with the presents
bestowed upon them.
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Our interpreter, Alek Frapp,
collected, on the north fork of Humboldt river, all the Indians
around and brought them, at the request of Major Lynde, just
returned from Gravelly Ford, to his camp. Major Lynde made an
appropriate speech, and presented them with flour and meat. They
informed him that most of their tribe had left the Humboldt and
gone south to avoid the passing soldiers.
In our reconnoissance, sometimes
extending 70 miles north of the Humboldt, we met only a few lodges
of Indians, belonging partly to the Sho-sho-nee and partly to the
Bannock tribes. The latter came from the Snake river, where they
had passed the fishing season. As they had never seen white men in
this part of the country they were at a loss what to make of us,
but, as I had always some presents with me, they seemed satisfied
with the answer that we were here to see the country.
All the Western Sho-sho-nees have
been friendly to us, at least they did not molest us nor attempt
to steal our mules. Close to the dividing range between the
Western Sho-sho-nees and Pah-Utah tribes, we met about a dozen
lodges of the latter Indians. They received presents, but as their
language is quite different from. that of the Sho-sho-nees, I was
unable to learn any thing concerning them. These were the last
party of Indians we saw, although delayed for sortie time in camp
at Tutt's Meadows, Humboldt river. I have to recommend to your
special notice the good conduct of Isaac Frapp, or Sho-sho-nee
Aleck, the Sho-sho-nee half-breed, who has been of great service
to the party, both as interpreter and as doing the general work of
an employé.
In making these explorations and in
carrying out your instructions I have been ably seconded by my
assistants, Messrs. Poor, Long, and Key, whom I would recommend to
you for favorable mention in your report to the department, and
Mr. J. C. Campbell for his valuable general assistance; to John A.
Justus, who was more particularly in charge of the transportation,
I am largely indebted for the admirable manner in which he
performed this important duty. With the exception of the two mules
which died, he carried the entire stock through to California in
good condition.
I am, sir, with greatest respect,
your obedient servant,
WILL. H.
WAGNER,
Engineer of Fort Kearney, South Pass,
and Honey Lake Wagon Road.
F. W.
LANDER, Superintendent
Fort Kearney, South Pass, and Honey
Lake Wagon Road.
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