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SAN
FRANCISCO,
CALIFORNIA,
October 31, 1860.
SIR: I have the honer to lay before you a report of the season's operations, details of which have already reached you in papers transmitted during the summer.
The subject of the Indian difficulties, the causes which produced them, the action of my party in relation to them, and the manner in which the mar was closed, are embraced in a long report, which, following your instructions of 1859, I have made to the honorable Commissioner of Indian Affairs.
Your instructions have been
closely followed as to the erection of none other than permanent
works. The only timber structures used were at small springs
adjacent to the settlements and where the nature of the foundation
precluded other modes of building. In such cases the timber is
laid beneath the surface and where the constant saturation of
water will prevent decay. At the same places large earth tanks
were excavated, which would prove of service to the emigrants
could the latter be induced to keep their stock from entering and
turning them into pools of muddy water. Some of the emigrants were
so improvident as to burn the fences and sills around the
tanks.
At the first watering place, called
Mud Springs, a paved descent and stoned bottom were all that was
required.
At the second, known as Buffalo
Springs, a well was sunk about fifteen feet below the surface of
the Mud Lakes. Several strata of shells and clean white sand were
passed through, but no bed of clay or hard material found suitable
for a bottom to the tank. The water which percolated from the
spring through the sides of this well was lost in the bottom. A
line of wooden troughs was therefore laid below the orifice of the
spring, and a tank formed around the troughs with an additional
pond for waste water lined with the light surface clay of the Dry
Lake. The old spring was opened and cleaned out, and the work left
for the emigration to test. The result was, that the emigrants
found abundance of water in the troughs through the whole of the
dry season, but, from allowing their stock to enter the large
adjacent tank, it was rendered muddy'.
A trader has recently located at
this spring, who has received instructions to prevent emigrants
driving their cattle into the tank, which, in addition to the
troughs, will always remain fall of water.
At Deep Hole Springs, the great
natural watering place on the western side of the desert, nothing
was required.
At Granite Springs, paved bottoms
and sides were placed and several small tanks made with inclined
planes for the cattle to descend upon.
A most excellent watering place,
with grass sufficient for a laying up ground, for the entire
emigration, was discovered six miles northward from Granite
Springs, and a new road traced across the desert
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and directed to it. It is at this point that the Pah-Utes, in
large numbers, surrounded some emigrants and led them to believe
that they were to be attacked. The spot is a favorite herding
ground of that tribe. After a parley they told the emigrants they
might take the grass. "Bye-and-bye big Father pay 'um
Pah-Utey."
At Hot Springs, the water, which is
abundant, was conducted about four hundred feet to a large
reservoir constructed by damming the old channel of a mountain
brook. The sides of the reservoir were paved and the. bottom
paddled to prevent percolation. The water, which at the Hot
Springs will boil an egg hard in six minutes, is cooled by the
atmosphere in its passage to the reservoir, and is greedily drunk
by animals that have crossed the first desert. The stream below
the dam is comparatively cool and is good drinking water.
One-half mile from the Hot Springs
we were so fortunate as to find a mountain spring of pure water.
Here troughs were laid which remained full during the season. A
sign-post was erected on the emigrant road, at some expense, from
the distance to timber, directing travellers to the new
spring.
These minor works having been
completed, and the road out from Honey Lake graded, and in several
instances changed in location, the party moved on to Rabbit Hole
Springs.
This important point is situated
about the centre of the Eastern desert. Two or three small springs
break out from a hillside destitute of grass, and are absorbed by
the sands a few feet distant from the clayey ridge. When passing
this terrible range of country in 1859 we endeavored to obtain
water enough to make coffee, but after a long and unavailing trial
the train started on. We made on that trip a distance of sixty-two
miles in twenty hours without grass or water.
On reaching this desolate point the
present season, the animals, about one hundred in number, were
sent forward to the Humboldt river in charge of Mr. C. C.
Wrenshall. He was accompanied by twenty employés. After his
departure. light wagons, with their loads, were packed in a corral
around the scene of labor, and earth embankments thrown up as a
bulwark against Indian attack. Work was then commenced on the
springs by a party of fifteen men under fill effective guard.
Prospect holes were sunk to a depth of twenty-one feet, when the
bed-rock and a small stream of water was struck. The prospect was
then carried along the bed-rock towards the hill. At a distance of
one hundred and eighty feet the springs of the hillside were
encountered, affording clear and abundant water. The bed-rock was
then uncovered and the earth wasted out into a spoil embankment
for a space of one hundred and fifty feet square. This left the
highest point of the proposed tanks about twenty feet below the
surface of the hill, but with it very gradual slope from the
terrace or spoil embankment into the tank. A deep excavation was
then made along the highest ridge of the solid bed-rock, and, into
this, channels were out from the hillside springs. The channels
and springs, five in number, were then united by a split stone
culvert, laid in hydraulic cement. This work was then closed with
the debris of the hillside, after the covering stories of the
culvert had received a strong packing of the blue clay of the
section.
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This clay resembles that found below low-water mark on the
Atlantic coast, and used as boxing material to keep the sea out of
cellars and reservoirs upon wharves laid below high tide.
After the waters of the springs were
thus collected and shaded from the sun, so confined as to pass
over a clear rock bottom to the orifices of the culvert and into
the excavation, a large reservoir was commenced in the bed-rock.
It required about three weeks' labor to perfect this to a tank
holding about eighty thousand gallons. A wall was erected and a
drain or vent laid, both of solid masonry. Soon after the tank
filled the party moved on to Antelope Springs.
On our return, about three weeks
later, the water in the Rabbit Hole tank was six feet in depth. A
train of three hundred persons and one thousand animals did not
materially lower its surface. Aquatic birds, ducks, teal, plovers,
&c., &c., had sought the locality, which, in a straight
line, is distant from the Humboldt river about thirty-six miles.
The large body of water thus collected has had a remarkable effect
on the surrounding vegetation. Grass has started on the adjacent
desert, and, over an area of several hundred square feet, no
individual could have recognised (sic) the spot. I consider this
one of the most peculiar results I have ever had the opportunity
of recording during the conduct of the many explorations and works
in the wild interior which I have had in charge.
Antelope Springs, the last work on
the line, are twelve miles distant from the Humboldt river.
Prior to the improvement of the
Rabbit Hole, as the last point at which good water could be
procured, Antelope Springs were justly estimated the most
important watering place on the road. The emigrants usually halted
there a few hours and grazed upon the adjoining bunch grass. They
had, in former years, erected a small earth or mud dam, and a pool
of six feet in diameter served for the few horses or more valuable
animals commonly watered there by hand.
I thought it practicable to excavate
the solid slate ledge to a level platform, sufficient to hold,
with a curb wall of masonry, about thirty-five thousand gallons of
water. If this were possible, a substantial work might be erected
which would afford both the Oregon and California emigrants
abundance of water.
The work was commenced and completed
in about seventeen days. The walls laid in hydraulic cement have
proved impervious to water, and a reservoir now exists which fills
up as fast as drained, and can never fail of an abundant
supply.
Great credit is due Mr. C. C.
Wrenshall, who, during the construction of the last mentioned
important works, remained in charge of the animals of
transportation at a point on the Humboldt distant forty miles from
the camp at Rabbit Hole. It was a portion of the party at the
stock camp which captured the Pah-Utes referred to in my Indian
report as instrumental in closing the war.
H. Ex. 64-3
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A large extent of country has
been covered in explorations. The report of Wm. H. Wagner, chief
engineer, transmitted herewith, will explain the results and some
of the perils of this service, which, after my reconnoissances in
the north, was pursued entirely under his direction.
March to California, sale of Stock,
and closing up of the Exploration.
On our way to California the
armistice was made with Winnemucka, which has resulted in the
close of the war.
The expedition halted a week at
Honey Lake to repair wagons and recruit the stock. It crossed the
mountains and reached Marysville in excellent condition on the 8th
of September.
The best of the stock was sold at
quite an advance on cost. The remainder of the property was
disposed of at public auction as soon as properly advertised. From
the proceeds of the sales nearly all the employés were paid
off and discharged.
From the early completion of the
work, it has proved of great service to the emigrants, many of
whom, on arriving in the settlements, have taken the pains to
compliment the department in the press of California and Oregon
for the construction of this western section during the prevalence
of an Indian war.
The success of the party may be
attributed to your permitting me to retain the efficient and tried
officers of former expeditions.
By your instructions of August
30, "It is suggested that, unless you are under an expressed
obligation to return certain members of your party to Washington
and desire to do so yourself, you wind up your affairs and report
your accounts and operations on the road from California as soon
as practicable, that the department may be in possession of all
the facts connected with this season's work by the assembling of
Congress in December next."
On reorganizing the expedition in
1859, I suggested to General Superintendent A. H. Campbell the
propriety of increasing the compensation of William H. Wagner,
esq., who, under the very inadequate salary of assistant engineer,
was performing the important service of chief engineer, and to be
sent in charge of an expedition in advance of the party to explore
the dangerous Indian country adjacent to the Humboldt river. I
also suggested an increase of compensation for C. C. Wrenshall,
esq., who was sent in advance to Salt Lake City, there to organize
an expedition of Mormon laborers to repair the new road in advance
of the emigration. Neither of these gentlemen have received any
increase of compensation, although both of them have been very
great service to the expedition during the two seasons in which at
subordinate pay, they have done so much as superior officers
towards the success of our field operations. I believe both of
these gentlemen should be regarded as entitled to transportation
to Wash-
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ington, and, as there has been some expense incurred in
carrying on the work, under the circumstances of the Indian war,
not contemplated in your instructions, the presence of my
commissary, James A. Snyder, and disbursing agent, J. E. Burche,
esq., may be necessary in Washington in regard to the djustment of
the accounts., Mr. Snyder is another of the gentlemen who, engaged
at a low rate of compensation, has been promoted to the important
position of commissary, and filled it with great credit to himself
and without increase of pay for the last two years.
Although I have private reasons for
remaining in California, I also consider it my first duty to
accompany my accounts to Washinton (sic) and remain there during
their adjustment. Some expenses have been incurred during the
Indian troubles and afterwards, in obtaining interviews with the
chiefs of the Pah-Utes, which cannot properly be explained unless
I am present, and the accounts of which, under your instructions,
I do not feel justified in presenting without a more full detail
of the circumstances attending them than can appear in this
report.
All my accounts, the Indian and the
present report, will reach you, however, according to
instructions, prior to the assembling of Congress in December.
With the report of Chief Engineer
Wagner of his important explorations of the present season, I send
such a sketch map as he is enabled to furnish at such short
notice. It may appear expedient to you to have this season's work
added to the valuable detail topographical maps, already completed
under the superintendency of Mr. Wagner, of the country adjacent
to the route extending to the Pah-Ute line. Such pains have been
taken and expenses incurred in procuring these data, and they are
so valuable to the country, that it might appear an omission not
to have them placed upon the finished sheets with the other work,
especially as this was apparently contemplated by the following
clause of your instructions of April 16, 1860, arranging season's
programme: "A detail report of your operations and a map of the
road with the adjacent topography will be expected at the close of
the work."
Should it be judged expedient by you
to finish the mapping by adding to it the explorations of the
present summer, Mr. Wagner, as the person most competent to
superintend it, from having taken the field notes, can receive
instructions on reaching Washington.
I am, very respectfully, your
obedient servant,
F. W. LANDER.
Hon. JACOB
THOMPSON,
Secretary of Interior.
SAN
FRANCISCO,
CALIFORNIA,
October 22, 1860.
SIR: I have the honor to submit to you my report of the present season's explorations. The first reconnoissance was made from Honey Lake between the 19th of June and 1st of July. It extended over
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the valleys of Antelope and Willow creeks, tributaries of Susan
river, through the Madelin plains and Buffalo Creek cañon
(Mud Creek by Lt. Beckwith's exploration) to Buffalo Springs.
From Mud Spring a reconnoissance was
made to the mountains east and south of it.
From Rush Creek to the divide of
this and Buffalo Creek canon.
From Smoke Creek over the dividing
ridge to the desert.
From Buffalo Spring across the
desert (Mud Lake) to the mountains and dividing ridge of Pyramid
Lake. The larger part of Pyramid Lake was visible, the nearest
point only 9 miles distant.
From Deep Hole Springs over the
mountains to the Head of Granite creek.
An extensive reconnoissance was made
to the Black Rock range and its neighborhood, through the High
Rock cañon returning by the old emigrant road (Lassen's
trail) to Rabbit Hole Springs.
From Lassen's Meadows I went north
and connected the work of last year at its terminus, the bend of
Humboldt river at Tutt's Meadows.
All the highest and most prominent
points were taken by intersections, sometimes tested by 4 or 5
bearings; other points were obtained again from these
observations, so that an accurate map may be obtained of a country
partly unexplored.
We crossed several times the lines
of explorations made in 1853-'54 by Lt. Beckwith, Topographical
Engineers. Off from his lines I found some deviations, which will
explain the difference in the maps in some mountain ranges, course
of creeks, and other minor details.
Observations of the variation of the
compass were made in the Honey Lake valley, Humboldt river, Black
Rock spring, and another point north of High Rock cañon -
the last one not with satisfactory result, probably owing to close
proximity of mineral ore. The number of barometrical observations
is 490, at 20 stations.
A low but rocky ridge divides
Antelope from Honey Lake valley; it has no water except what the
melting snow in early spring furnishes.
Willow Creek valley is a very good
grazing ground for a length of about 17 miles. Some emigrant
trains with their stock spent the winter 1859-'60 in its lower
part, and a settlement was made in its upper one; but after the
commencement of the Indian difficulties in the spring of 1860, the
valley being too exposed, was abandoned.
Northeast of Willow creek, low
rolling hills, with occasionally high points, enclose perfectly
level plains, the water reservoirs of the surrounding hills; they
seldom have any other than subterranean outlets; some of them have
only a bare bottom without any vegetation, others are covered in
spring with grass. Madelin plains show in this way a luxuriant
growth of grass, particularly around the springs which come down
from the hillsides. The hills are covered with sage bushes
interspersed with bunch grass; the mountain sides show the juniper
trees. Between Madelin plains and Buffalo Spring desert, grass
is
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found only along the water courses or around springs. The
country is mountainous with steep and rocky hillsides, narrow
ravines, and cañons; the water in Buffalo Creek
cañon sinks before it emerges from the cañon. The
upper part of Smoke creek runs between rock walls from 25 to 60
feet high, but the valley itself is in most places over one mile
wide; the middle part at the forks of Rush creek is covered with
grass. Smoke creek sinks before it reaches the desert.
The Mud Lakes, or, better expressed,
the Granite Creek and Deep Hole Spring deserts, were very likely
once the bottom of a lake which lost its water by an earth
revolution; neither stones nor any vegetation are found upon its
surface. The mountains which enclose these deserts have numerous
cañons and ravines. But only a few of these ravines show
springs or creeks sinking in the sandy sage girdle which encircles
the deserts. A few springs rise in this region, furnishing the
traveller with water, and the surrounding bottom, irrigated by
their overflow, grass for the animals.
The Deep Hole Spring desert is 25
wiles long and about 8 to 10 wide.
The Granite Creek desert extends
from Granite creek 15 miles south, about 45 miles northeast, by a
width of about 12 to 15 miles.
The Black Rock range, with its
eastern terminus, the Black Rock point, is 27 miles from Granite
creek. This range with its immediate neighborhood has been, in the
last few years, the scene of labors of so many prospectors,
expecting to make it a rival to the Carson valley region, that I
may be permitted to give an outline of the origin of the
researches for gold and silver ore
In the years 1849-'53 a good portion
of emigrants from the eastern States took, from the Humboldt
river, Lassen's trail, through Black Rock valley High Rock
cañon to Goose Lake and the upper part of Pitt river,
thence either to California or Oregon.
As early as 1849 a Mr. Harden found
a specimen in Black Rock valley, which long afterwards was found
out to be rich in silver.
In the same year Mr. Ben Johnson
found native silver north of High Rock cañon.
M. J. Foreman, who travelled the
same road in 1851, and Drt. Glaize, in 1852, both found spcimens
(sic) rich in silver ore.
Since that time, but mostly in the
last two years, the country has been searched for silver. P.
Lassen, well known as one of the earliest pioneers in California,
was killed by Indians in one of these prospecting tours at the
foot of Black Rock peak. Companies were formed and almost every
one brought specimens in, some of which assayed as high as $1,700
per ton. It is estimated that over 1,500 persons visited and
prospected in this country in the spring of 1860. But the Indian
war interrupted a more extended and thorough search, as several
parties were attacked, their animals driven off, and they barely
escaped with their lives.
I have no doubt that in a short time
hence rich leads will be discovered, but for settlements the
country labors under some disadvantages.
In the upper part of Black Rock
valley are several hot and two cold springs - the Silver springs.
A small creek runs off from these for
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about 6 or 7 miles, then disappears. Farther down the valley
are three more cool springs, with their grass, like an oasis in
the desert. In the neighborhood of Black Rock point are three hot
springs, the water of which, when cooled, is not disagreeable to
drink. Some small springs with very good water are found in the
northern and southern slopes of the enclosing mountains. In the
mountains west of the valley juniper trees of considerable size
and quaking aspens are found. On the eastern slope of Black Rock
peak are two small creeks emptying east into Mud Lake, the banks
of which are studded with quaking aspens, but the southern and
western slopes are almost destitute of vegetation.
High Rock cañon is about 15
miles long, in average 500 yards wide, with perpendicular rock
walls 180 feet high; water through its entire length in holes.
North from the cañon 6 miles
and two miles east of the road, a very remarkable specimen of
petrifaction was found by prospectors in the spring of, 1860. It
is a petrified tree covering a space of ground with its splinters
and smaller pieces of 1,017 feet, There are three, though broken,
pieces of 110, 125, and 85 feet lying in one line, the probable
diameter about 6 or 8 feet.
We returned by a shorter and better
route than High Rock cañon, a place only too favorable for
Indian attacks, to Silver springs, thence across Black Rock desert
to Rabbit Hole springs and Humboldt river.
The country north of Lassen's
Meadows and west of Tuft's Meadows shows the same characteristics
as that farther westward - large valleys covered with sage bushes
and high granite mountains mostly without any trees.
Water is still scarcer here than in
the Black Rock neighborhood; finding water once 12 miles from
Humboldt river and again some at Rush creek, at the lower end of
Tuft's Meadows.
Humboldt river was very low this
season; many places which we found covered with water in the
summer of 1859 had now good grass. To this is owing the good state
of health of cattle droves coming from the east. None of the
emigrants complained, as was formerly the case, about losing
animals by poison from alkali.
Minerals.
In the course of my explorations
many of the points I visited were rich in mineral ores. Some of
the specimens I tested in camp, others I have placed in the bands
of a skilful (sic) assayer for analysis.
Those I have tested for silver and
gold were found to be rich enough for mining purposes. In regard
to others, the expense for transportation of the raw material
would be too high for profitable labor. Gold, silver, and
manganese are found in the Black Rock range; copper in the
mountains south of Antelope spring. Platina is said to be found in
a cañon 3 miles west of the Antelope spring, also, gold in
quartz. In excavating wells at Rabbit Hole spring small scales of
gold were found 5 feet below the surface, and in the dry bed of a
creek close by prospectors found gold, but there is not enough
water to work with. In the sides of the mountains enclosing Honey
Lake valley is iron ore
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and pyrites of iron. The washings and surface diggings of a small creek south of Richmond, in Honey Lake valley, have been profitably worked for gold during the last two seasons.
The Pah-Utahs, after their
several defeats, scattered-some over the northern portion of the
country around the lakes and some to the mountains along the
Humboldt river.
As we came out of High Rock
cañon, about 10 a. in., a smoke arose from a small peak,
about 8 miles north, close to the road. We camped two miles south
from that bluff. In the afternoon, one party guarding camp and
animals, the other visited the petrified tree; on arriving there
they were shot at from a low bluff not very distant; one of the
Indians had a rifle, two others bows and arrows. Immediately after
firing the Indians ascended a higher bluff, where they were joined
by a good many others. The distance between us was now so great
that we did not waste our ammunition by returning their fire.
The next morning we ascertained that
they had an encampment about 3 miles east of us in a small valley,
but that they had left it during the night in an eastern
direction.
Our camps in Black Rock valley were
several times visited by Indians, as we repeatedly found their
fresh moccasin tracks, but, keeping a strict guard, we were never
surprised. Some parties of Pah-Utahs went up the Humboldt river
trading with emigrants for ammunition. Many of these travellers
had not yet learned of their war with the whites, but most of them
refused to trade with them.
For the purpose of trading the
Indians were friendly towards the emigrants, but well on their
guard against parties coming from the west.
As we came out of the hills into the
road below Tutt's Meadows, alarm fires were lighted opposite our
camp; and in the course of the afternoon we counted 11 smokes on
the highest peaks of the mountain range dividing the Pah-Utah and
Sho-sho-nee tribes. They watched us in our course down the river
very close, always raising a smoke opposite to our camp, but never
attacked us. In all our explorations we did not lose a single
animal, although from want of water, scarcity of grass, and long
rides they suffered considerably.
Before closing this report I avail
myself of the opportunity to express my thanks to the gentlemen
associated with me in the engineering department: Messrs. R. L.
Poor, M. M. Long, and Ch. F. Hoffman, for the efficiency and
assiduity with which they attended to the various duties imposed
upon them, and take much pleasure of favorably recommending them
to your consideration.
I am, very respectfully, your
obedient servant,
WILLIAM H.
WAGNER,
Engineer P. L. W. Road.
Col. F. W. LANDER,
Supt. P. O. L. W. Rd.
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