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155

SERIES 11.

BULLETIN No. 10.

SOMETHING ABOUT SEWING FOR NEBRASKA GIRLS


INTRODUCTION.

     This bulletin is prepared especially for the use of members of the Nebraska Girls' Domestic Science Association and for teachers who are interested in the work. It aims to give the student some definite information and direction which will assist her in some particular lines and to be the means of suggesting further original work. This bulletin is one of the series issued under the co-operative plan of the University of Nebraska and the Department of Public Instruction in encouraging the work in Agriculture and Home Economics through the public schools. Copies are furnished free to managers of county and school district clubs and to other persons who are interested. For information relative to the work and the meetings of the county and state organizations apply to the county superintendent of the respective county. A later bulletin will tell more of the state meeting to be held January 17-22, 1910.

The Sewing Contest at the State Meeting.
     Premiums will be awarded for:
1. A sewing apron; entirely hand made, no machine work.
2. A "Domestic Science" apron; machine made, may have some hand work.
3. Work apron (with sleeves, and buttoned in the back) including hand and machine work on the garment.
4. Washable sofa-pillow cover with top and back sewed together on three sides.
5. Plain wash shirt waist.

     It should be remembered in all this work that even stitches, strong sewing and neat finish are of greater importance than expensive trimmings.

     When aprons and waists are finished there should be no raw nor unfinished seams, no basting threads, and no gathers which have not been stroked.

     Materials may be shrunk before cutting, but the finished article should be sent to the contest unlaundered. In shrinking colored goods, put salt in water, let goods partly dry, then iron.

     Each article becomes the property of the contestant at the close of the contest. She should therefore make it of such size as to be useful to her upon its return.

     Many helpful suggestions in cooking and sewing may be found in "University Bulletin, Series XIII, Number 14," which was distributed last year.


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STATE SUPERINTENDENT'S REPORT

     Each girl is asked to especially interest herself in her own home along the following lines:

     1. The neat and careful setting of the table.

     2. The cost of each meal.

     3. The entire preparation of at least one dish for the table each day. For example--a plate of muffins; a platter of eggs; an apple pie, etc.


The School of Agriculture Offers

A SHORT COURSE IN COOKING AND SEWING

At State Meeting of

The Nebraska Girls' Domestic Science Association

     The Course. -- The course will run for five days and instruction will be given in cooking, serving, sewing, and home nursing. The forenoons will be spent in the kitchen of the Home Economics Building where demonstrations, practical cooking and serving, and lectures will be given.

     The afternoons will be devoted to work in nursing and sewing. A full description of the courses offered will he published in the premium list for the state contest to be held next January.

     A course in agriculture for the boys will run five days. Instruction will be given in improved methods of corn culture, soil culture and the feeding and care of farm animals.

     Eligibility. -- Each county girls' and boys' association may send one girl and one boy as delegates from its association. The delegate must be between the ages of 12 and 21 years and must be chosen by a committee appointed by the county manager. The delegate must have won some premium or taken some active part in the county contest. The county association or delegate must pay railroad fare to Lincoln and return, and beard and room while attending this course.

     Explanation. -- Nearly 40 counties have active girls' and boys' organizations and for that reason the number of delegates must be limited so that the classes will not be too large for effective work. The members of the class will be expected to take notes at the lectures and from these notes prepare a report which can be read before some meeting in their respective counties. Special arrangements will be made to give the girls and boys as much helpful information as possible. If the weather is pleasant several points of interest in Lincoln and different departments in the University will be visited. It is suggested that the delegate from each county look after exhibits from her or his county.

      We appreciate the courtesy of the departments in offering this course and hope that every county where a girls' and boys' contest are held will send one delegate to the girls' school and also a delegate


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to the boys' school. A free trip to the state meeting for the short course would make an excellent premium to be awarded at the county contest.

     Further announcements will be made with the premium list of the state meeting.


University of Nebraska Domestic Science Apron

By Grace Denny, University of Nebraska

     Implements .-- Metal end 60 inch tape measure, one foot ruler marked in inch divisions with metal edge. Needle 8 or 9 and thread No. 60 for gingham and 70 or 80 for India linen. Thimble, scissors, pins, pin-cushion.

     Material Suitable. -- Checked apron gingham -- 27 inches, $ .08 to $ .10 per yard; India linen -- 27 inches to 32 inches, $ .10 to $ .12 per yard.

     Cutting. -- Cut apron to reach bottom of skirt when finished, as it will shrink in washing. Fold the material in the middle lengthwise and lay the pattern on according to the diagram placing the side marked double on the fold of the cloth. Allow 3/8 inches all around for seams and hems. The diagram shows 32-inch material. If gingham is used it will require 2 1/2 yards. The band should be made the waist measurement plus 1 inch. This amount is calculated for an apron 36 Inches long. More material should be allowed for a longer apron.

     Making. -- Baste all seams and hems carefully before stitching. Join the side gores to the front in French seams. To do this place the wrong sides of material together and stitch 1/2 inch from the edges on the right side. Trim edges smooth and turn the seam in. Baste and stitch the second time on the wrong side far enough below the first stitching that the raw edge will not show on the right side (1-16 Inch.) Now baste and stitch hem 1/4 inch wide, with 1/3 inch margin turned in around sides and bottom of apron. Before gathering trim the top to fit the waist curve in front. This varies with the individual, 1/4 inch in the middle will probably be sufficient. Fold the apron and slope off from middle to sides. Mark middle of top with pin, or notch. Gather 1/4 inch from the edge, using one thread. Make gathering thread when fastened 16 inches long. Place the right side of the band on the wrong side of the gathered apron and the middle of the band on the gathered portion and baste in 1/4 inch seam on right side. Place on band with seams on right side, and middle of gathers on middle of band, and baste. Fold the band over (1/4 inch margin turned in, making band one inch wide) and baste even with first seam. Before finishing to the end, have the ties hemmed 1/8 inch on sides (made by foot hemmer on sewing machine)


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STATE SUPERINTENDENT'S REPORT

and one inch on each end and fold or plait each one so that it may be enclosed within the end of the band. Baste carefully and stitch the band (lower edge) and the ends twice. Fold 1/4 Inch margin around pocket to wrong side, and baste. Now place the lower edge of pocket 13 inches from the band, and 4 1/2 inches to right of center of the apron. Baste and stitch.

     To make the bib, first baste in a seam at back and fit. It may require some change in the slope. Stitch in a plain seam on wrong side. Overcast edges and press open. Baste hem and stitch around outside and neck of bib the same width as on bottom of apron. To attach the bib, fold from lower edge to right side a margin 14 inch wide and place it on wrong side of band at the top and in the middle. Baste; stitch two rows.

     Finishing. -- Draw all threads through to wrong side, tie in double knots and trim closely. Press the apron.

     Suggestions to Teachers and Parents. -- This apron is the style used by the students of Home Economics in the University of Nebraska. It has proved to be the simplest and most practicable kind of apron. The bib protects the waist and requires no buttoning or pinning. The ties are easier to keep in order than a band with buttons. The corners are rounded to prevent catching in doorways, etc. The round pocket does not hold bits of lint and dust as one with square corners: There are many other suitable materials beside the ones named, but these are commonly used. Attention should be called to the fact that careful measuring, basting and tying of threads are essential to any well finished garment.


Directions for Making a Work Apron

By Gertrude N. Rowan, University of Nebraska

     This apron should be as nearly as possible the style shown in the Illustration. A simple pattern may be cut at home by following the measurements given in the diagram. If desired one may procure a pattern of the same general style. Lay pattern on material according to diagram. In cutting allow seams 3/8 inch wide, 1 1/2 inches on backs, and 2 1/2 inches on the bottom for hems. Cut bias pieces for finish at the neck 1 1/2 inches wide. Baste front, sides and back together, also shoulder seams, Fit apron. Begin all basting at the top of the garment, and baste from top down. Finish belt and insert in under arm seam at the waist line. After making changes stitch the seams. Piece sleeves, gather top between seam and notch, also gather the bottom. Put on the cuffs, and insert sleeves in the arm holes, placing the seam 2 1/2 inches in front of under arm seam. Turn hem on backs 3/4 inch wide and on the bottom 2 1/2 inches. Finish neck, either round or square, with bias facing stitched on the right side. Put on.


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Work Apron Pattern


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STATE SUPERINTENDENT'S REPORT

pocket according to directions for domestic science apron. Put buttons and button holes on the belt, cuffs, and down the back. Finish all seams and fasten all threads. For overcasting, take each stitch separately and far enough apart so it will not pull out.


Suggestions for Making a Shirt Waist

By Gertrude N. Rowan

Shirt Waist Plan

Shirt Waist Plan

     This plain shirt waist with yoke across shoulders to prevent wearing out around neck requires two and one-half yards of material 24 inches wide. By following this plan for laying the pattern on the material there will be no difficulty about getting the right and left sides cut correctly nor about having the parts the right way of the cloth which is very important. Care should be taken to fit all notches together where basting seams.

     Before making up a shirt waist of washable material it is advisable to shrink it by thoroughly dampering and pressing with a hot Iron. If it is not desirable to shrink all of the material, the neck band should be shrunk. When the goods may be bought for from five to seven cents a yard there is no reason why every girl should not learn to make shirt waists and look neat about the house as well as away from home.


A Recipe for Bread

1 pint scalded milk

1 tablespoon salt

1 pint boiling water

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 cup lard

3 quarts sifted flour

1 yeast cake in 1/4 cup luke-warm water

     Pour boiling water over milk, lard, salt and sugar. When lukewarm, add dissolved yeast and 1 quart flour. Beat until well filled with bubbles. Let rise over night. In morning add remaining flour, knead until light to touch. Let rise to double its bulk. Knead, shape In loaves, let rise one-half its bulk. Bake 50 minutes in hot oven hot first 15 minutes, then medium remaining time


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